Day 4 Pamplona – Puente la Reina – 22.5km
The route from Pamplona is a mixture of countryside and busy roads, and one of the best views that you are every likely to have of Pamplona. Leaving Pamplona the route is well marked out of the city and takes you across some local parks before heading into a small valley. As with all valleys on the Camino there is a upward climb at the end of it.
The first and easiest climb of today brings you to Cizur Menor a small village and suburb of Pamplona. As you enter the village there is a pharmacy and two cafes on the left hand side, these are the last cafes for quite some time and they are often full of pilgrims having breakfast or lunch.
Shortly after leaving Cizur Menor you will begin the hardest climb and then decent of the day, however the views at the top are well worth the effort. You will see the alto in front of you with the windmills along the top – that is where you are going.
The climb up the Alto del Perdon leaves the Atlantic Basin behind and the scenery changes after the alto to mostly crop fields. At the top of the Alto there are various status of pilgrims from the past. Often there is also an Englishman who spends his summers helping pilgrims. He has been there twice as I pass. He sells cans of soft drinks and gives away tea; he also has some basic medical supplies to help pilgrims suffering from blisters.
The route from the top is dangerous underfoot. The decent is steep, uneven, and is composed of loose gravel and stones. Take it easy here; walkers often hurt themselves on downhill’s like this than anywhere else.
The rest is the day is fairly easy and gently downhill through Uterga and Muruzabal, both small one horse towns, though they both have bars.
Obanos is about 2km before Puente la Reina and during the busy times of July and Aug if you can get a bed here grab it. I have stayed in the Albergue here, it is on the main Square as you go into the town, it is well looked after. The main Albergue in Puente la Reina is at the start of the town on the left hand side, the Camino passes past the front door. There are other private hostels are at the far end of the town just after the bridge, they are well sign posted.
What to see:
- Church of San Miguel in Cizur Menor
- Every second year during August there is an outdoor play in the main Square in Obanos
- The pilgrim statue between Obanos and Puente la Reina marks the convergence of the two Caminos – the Camino Frances and the Camino Aragones from Somport
- The Church of Santiago el Mayor – inside there are gothic sculptures of Santiago
- The Romanesque bridge out of the city is the most famous bridge on the Camino