Day 1 St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles 22.7km
For information on getting to St Jean or Roncesvalles see this link.
St Jean Pied de Port is the modern starting point for the vast majority walking any of the Caminos. It is the main starting point for the Camino Frances, the most popular of all the Caminos, and the best supported. And I dearly wish that it wasn’t. There is nothing wrong with St Jean, it is a beautiful bustling French market town hidden away in the Pyrenees, it is just a very tough first day. Here you can buy any last minute items, like a hat, but with my knowledge of pilgrims it is likely you are carrying too much already.
To see the full size map of St Jean to Roncesvalles click here – this is the information given out at St Jean where you can collect your pilgrims passport, I hope they don’t mind me re-printing it.
This first day on the Camino is the hardest without doubt for various reasons. It is the first day, and your body is probably not used to walking all day carrying a rucksack, if you have packed more than 10% of your body weight you will know about it quickly. However you will know after a while anyway that your body objects to this extra burden. The route from St Jean is steep, very steep and climbs from 200 metres above sea level to just above 1,400 meters then head right back down again into Roncesvalles at 900 metres, which can be very hard going on your knees and shins.
Only start this day if you have a full day ahead and leave early. It is not advisable to start half way through the day unless you have booked yourself into the Orrison, which is about half way to Roncesvalles. Check the weather forecast in the pilgrim’s office at the top of the main street before you set out; they will also supply you with your pilgrim’s passport and information on the route ahead and sometimes they have updated lists of hostels. It is advisable to check here just for any last minute information.
Then you wander down the beautiful main street of St Jean and start walking uphill through the old town gate. The signs are impossible to miss and unless you are walking mid winter there will also be a steady stream of pilgrims in front of and behind you. Have some food and your water bottle full – I would always start the day carrying two litres.
There are two routes from St Jean to Roncesvalles, the Napoleon Route if you are walking and the Valcarlos route, (road route), if you are cycling.
Take it easy. The Camino is not a sprint, it is a marathon; one that can be enjoyed and savoured. Although the walk up the Pyrenees is difficult it is immensely rewarding. The peace and silence is a precursor of the times ahead on the Meseta. The views are stunning and if you do stay in the Orrison overnight it is worth getting up very early as the views in the morning sun are stunning.
Approaching Roncesvalles you will have the choice of two paths. At this point you will see the monastery below nestled in the valley surrounded by trees. One path goes straight down the hill side and is steep and can be dangerous, (an old Roman Road) – the other to the right is much easier and better underfoot. Both routes bring you out at the rear of the Collegiate Church in Roncesvalles.
What to see and do:
- St Jean Pied de Port itself and the Church of Notre-Dame
- Biakorre – A statue of the Virgin Mary on the route – about half way
- Roncesvalles – the Collegiate church itself
- The church of Santiago – Roncesvalles
- Sancti Spiritus chapel, an ossuary for many pilgrims – Roncesvalles
- Charlemagne’s chess set – Roncesvalles
Resources:
- http://www.terre-basque.com/home.asp St Jean Pied de Port tourism site with info on the town, how to get there, and other places to stay.
- http://www.roncesvalles.es/index.asp?lg=eng Website on Roncesvalles. For information on hostels see the pilgrims hostels page.