First Time Walker with tons of questions!

[JennyFresh]

Hi,
I have never done a long journey like this before, and have been planning on doing the French route. But now I have been reading about the Northern route recently and can't get it out of my mind! I love the ocean and would be happy to be able to swim along the way. However, I don't want to carry a tent and I don't want to have to walk over 40km to get to an albergue to sleep every night. Is this route not for me? Is it safe for a young woman who is traveling alone? Are there safe places to sleep along the way? Is the terrain [I]much[I] more difficult than the french route?
Next set of questions: I keep reading about the camino primitivo. That is the part that connects the northern route with Santiago? Is it called primitivo because there is no path? Are there places to stay there?
Do you recommend starting with the french route and then someday returning for the nothern route with a companion or can I handle this? I'm kind of scared but also excited! Thank you!
Jenny

[Beatrix]

Hello Jenny,

Well I think, if you have a feeling that the north way is creeping into your mind, I would deffinitely go for it! Otherwise if you walk another way your mind might be all the time wondering that maybe the north way is better.
The see and the coast is truely beautiful and there are some gorgius beaches on the way!

Camino Primitivo is called that as that was the first real pilgrim route. If I know right, there was a king living in Oviedo, and he was the 'first' pilgrim walking to Santiago. I guess the first meaning here is that the first famous pilgrim.
Then he saw what a great thing is to do a pilgrimage to Santiago and started to finance to build albergues and hostels. People please feel free to correct me, but thats how I remember.
The way from Oviedo to Santiago I heard that the nicest ever. Lots of big mountains, forests I heard.

Regarding your concerns I wouldn't worry about those! I walked alone (without tent) and had not been scared of any human. Only been scared by a cow and some dogs.
The cow was a realy big one, and looked at me, then run for it jumped over the fence. Seeing such a great animal jumping over it was quite shocking. Naturaly I believed that it wants to eat me, but luckily he started to get back to be vegetarian and started eating the grass. Now I a wonder, maybe it didn't even see me only the grass...

A lot of pilgrims walked shorter distances, but I think in this case, you just need to get a good guide book, and make some investigations on the internet, where are the albergues, hostels and hotels!
I walked long distances because I like to walk long distances and do not like to plan much and also as I wanted to sleep in cheap or religious places.

Good luck with your preparation and for your journey!

[JennyFresh]

Thanks for your response! Did you do the whole northern route? Is it easy to go from San Sebastian all the way to Santiago? I have been reading that the northern route is actually paved a lot of the way. Did you find this to be true?
Thanks@ Jenny

[Covey]

I met a couple in August 2009 who had abandoned walking the Northern Route because there were so few pilgrims walking the route. They said that some nights they were alone in an albergue. For a first time pilgrim, I would always suggest the Camino Frances because it is a more developed route with more frequent albergues, there are more pilgrims who can offer support and encouragement, and the Camino Frances is the best training ground for a pilgrim.

Then.......you go off and explore routes like the Northern Route.

[Beatrix]

Jenny,

Yes I walked from San Sebastian to Santiago and the answer to you question is that its not easy.
So if you would like an 'easier' route walk the frances, and then later return and do the north route if you still feel up to it. This is how I did it.
The north route is difficult, big mountains, less infrastructure, less albergues, and less organised. However I met other lonely lady pilgrims on the way, and it was their first pilgrimage. They all said they had a great time. Don't forget that some places on the north coast is more for tourist then pilgrims, and the hotel, hostel prices are higher.

Regarding the paved roads, thats true. half of the way or even more is paved. Initialy I felt that its uncomfortable, but then there were ways without being paved and had a very mudy time on those. I think the reason for the ways to be paved is that the ground is too slippery otherwise.

With Covey, I perfectly agree. To start a pilgrimage, the best option is the french way.
On the north you would have to pay attention to a lot of details (signs, albergues, food, water, altitude, distances) to make sure that you get to Santiago, and there are fewer pilgrims on the north deffinitely. I too had to sleep alone in an albergue once.
The french way is an easier ground, better organised, and better infrastructure, but just as difficult as any other long pilgrimage, in terms of walking. Its a long distance in both route. I think its great, that we have a choice between these two wonderful ways.

Good luck, hard decision, but in any case, I am sure there are some cities where there are buses in between, to change routes.

[Covey]

I always enjoying seeing the difference in the pilgrims after a week on the trail. In SJPDP you see those who are a little awe struck actually finding themselves in a small French town at the base of the Pyrenees and hoping that all their planning and preparation was worth it.

Dawn finds them looking up at the hills wondering if they ever stop going up and saying a silent prayer for just a little flat ground to walk on so they can catch their breath as it slowly dawns on them that the Camino is not just a gentle wander through the countryside of northern Spain.

Lunch time is a time for serious reflection on what you are carrying on your back!! Do I really need 3 pairs of socks? How much weight can I save if I lose a pair?? And then salvation. The Camino Grandfathers gather up the faltering and weary, tell them stories of mountains conquered and maidens rescued on previous Camino's, or any outlandish story to stop the weary thinking of the carnage that were once their dancing feet, and lo and behold, the summit is there and then the really hard part starts, the 8kms steep downhill shuffle to Roncesvalles which is actually worse than the 20kms uphill bit.

By the time you get to Pamplona, you are thinking that maybe you will survive the vultures and religious nutters and the snorers and smelly feet brigade, and by the time you get to Burgos, you will have the biggest smile in creation on your face as you stride up to the Cathedral, knowing that if you have made it this far, the rest will be easy.

[JennyFresh]

Thank you! I am having fun imagining my stages of fear, doubt, and acceptance. Smelly feet though??? Oh no!! Anyway, I still wonder if I should bother getting a guide book if I am walking the french route. Suggestions? And is three liters of water today the right amount? Thank you!

[Covey]

Be prepared for smelly feet! Not your own of course, but there is always someone whose personal hygiene is not what might be desired. When there are 100 of you living in very close proximity, these things are noticed!. I always think that British boarding schools are a good training ground for the Camino!

Don't worry about the guide books, as everybody else carries one, so you can always read theirs. Just follow the yellow arrows, as they will guide your entire existence for the next 4-6 weeks.

You need to drink a lot of water throughout the day. Drink half a litre before you start walking, and the same amount every time you stop for a break or lunch.

The Camino is like a large blank sheet of paper, except that unlike normal life, you don't have to fill it up, and no one else is going to fill it up for you. The real trick is to just go with the flow, don't worry about tomorrow, just think about the next hour or so and at lunchtime, start to think about where you might sleep that night. In the meantime, enjoy the company and the countryside around you.

The Camino moves in mysterious ways!

[johnp]

Jenny,

Yes I walked from San Sebastian to Santiago and the answer to you question is that its not easy.
So if you would like an 'easier' route walk the frances, and then later return and do the north route if you still feel up to it. This is how I did it.
The north route is difficult, big mountains, less infrastructure, less albergues, and less organised. However I met other lonely lady pilgrims on the way, and it was their first pilgrimage. They all said they had a great time. Don't forget that some places on the north coast is more for tourist then pilgrims, and the hotel, hostel prices are higher.

Regarding the paved roads, thats true. half of the way or even more is paved. Initialy I felt that its uncomfortable, but then there were ways without being paved and had a very mudy time on those. I think the reason for the ways to be paved is that the ground is too slippery otherwise.

With Covey, I perfectly agree. To start a pilgrimage, the best option is the french way.
On the north you would have to pay attention to a lot of details (signs, albergues, food, water, altitude, distances) to make sure that you get to Santiago, and there are fewer pilgrims on the north deffinitely. I too had to sleep alone in an albergue once.
The french way is an easier ground, better organised, and better infrastructure, but just as difficult as any other long pilgrimage, in terms of walking. Its a long distance in both route. I think its great, that we have a choice between these two wonderful ways.

Good luck, hard decision, but in any case, I am sure there are some cities where there are buses in between, to change routes.

Hi Beatrix.

We did part of the Camino del Norte last year. We walked from Santander (well, we got the Feve out of town) to llanes.
I found this pretty easy going. There were a few hills, but nothing that I found difficult. Ok, so I huffed and puffed once or twice, but that's not unusual for me
Does it get more difficult after Llanes? I was thinking that I would start in Llanes and go to Oviedo. Does the terrain change much?

[sharon]

HI Jenny - just saw your thread and I#m in exactly the same position as you were last year with the same questions! reckon IL prob go for the french route but would be interested to hear how what you chose and how you got on??

[backiej]

Jenny did you ever walk the Norhern Route or the French route? Please let us know. Thanks. Jackie

[Seby_C]

Hi all!

Joining this late of course, but the thread is actually exactly about what I was going to ask. I'm a guy and also considering the northern route, and would love to hear your feedback after having now done it, if of course that is what you opted for in the end! I'd like to get a real idea of how (few) many people do the northern route, how much and how expensive accommodation is, and how tough the asphalt is on your knees. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!!!Thanks ;-)