Hi, Sandy,
Just saw your note here and thought I'd throw out some reactions. I walked the Norte in 2006, so others may have much more up to date information. One thing is certain -- the numbers have grown, and as that happens, the camino feeling grows as well. Because unlike the routes in France, which are filled with holiday walkers as well as pilgrims, in my experience the Camino paths in Spain, even the less traveled ones, are used by people who tilt towards the pilgrim side of things.
The Norte has incredibly spectacular scenery, and I am not exaggerating. It's true that I am coast-deprived and surrounded by corn and soy fields here in the midwest, but I think that even people who are used to sea coasts rank this one highly. The Norte also goes through many touristy seacoast towns. Tthat means you will have lots of private lodging options, and the smaller number of albergues won't be a problem so long as finances aren't a problem. When I walked, my companion was a friend who is not a big fan of albergues, so we did stay in a lot of hotels/pensiones, etc (some of them were just lovely like these:
Hotel Mar del Sueve Colunga Asturias - Bienvenido al Hotel ;
La Casona de Pío < ( [ Hotel Villa la Argentina ] ) > Luarca - Asturias - España -- since I met you in the Posada Regia in Leon I can say with some certainty that you are, like I am, a sucker for places like these!). But being in so many beautiful touristy places does make it harder to replicate the camino feeling sometimes. I will say though that we met several people who had made a point of only staying at albergues and were able to do that almost all the time. I assume the number of albergues has increased in the last five years, because I've read reports that the Norte is quite crowded. For me, though the coast was the most beautiful, the last part of the Norte, which turns inland in Ribadeo, was the most camino-like. The albergues in Miraz and Baamonde are very special, the monastery in Sobrado was kind of like sleeping in Oseira on the Vdlp, and since we were in more rural territory, you got more into a pilgrim bubble.
As far as the day to day walking, there is a ton of asphalt walking on the norte. In fact, I think the day going into the beautiful town of Luarca was 100% asphalt, and there are others like it. Some people don't mind it but it kills my feet so I have to be careful. That for me is the biggest negative. There is much more up and down on the norte than most other caminos, too, though the ups are rarely more than several hundred meters -- they tend to go from beach to headland. That for me was a real plus because the changing vantage points just kept adding new perspectives to the beautiful scenery. I had many picnic lunches either down on a beach or up on a headland looking out over the ocean, and I can't say which was more lovely.
When you walk the Norte, you have to make a decision, kind of like when you're on the Vdlp in Zamora. You either stay on the Norte and continue on the coast till the camino heads south in Galicia, or you can leave the coast in Asturias (Villaviciosa), head south to Oviedo, and begin the Primitivo. Unable to choose one over the other, I have since walked both stretches and can only say that they were both wonderful.
Weather-wise, I walked the Norte in May, starting in Irun May 1 or 2 and had excellent weather. Just two full blown rainy days and a few days with short periods of rain. I walked the Primitivo from Oviedo to Santiago in October, a first for me, and I enjoyed it very much. Also had great weather, no rain, but some snow up in the mountains (much higher than where I was though). The primitivo's albergue structure was great, I only stayed in hotels once or twice, but again I think the numbers of walkers are putting a crunch on the lodging factor.
So, these are tough decisions to make, but they are so fun to research and dream about!
all the best, Laurie
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