Starting at Leon

[Covey]

Quite a number of Pilgrims start walking the Camino Frances at Leon and you can get your Pilgrim Passport from the following "official" albergues.

Albergue Municipal de Leon
C/Campos Goticos s/n,
24005, Leon, Spain
Phone: (0034) 987 081832
Fax: (0034) 987 261174

Albergue del Monasterio de las Benedictinas (Sta María de Carvajal) AKA The Nuns Albergue
Plaza Santa María del Camino
24005, León, Spain, Spain
Tel.: (0034) - 987 252 866 (0034) - 987 252 866
Tel.: (0034) - 680 649 289

You will need to show your National Passport/National ID Card when you ask for the Pilgrim Passport. Usual cost is €3-€5

The Nuns albergue locks up its residents at 9.30pm!! and the Municipal Albergue at 10pm.

If you are arriving late in Leon (after 4pm), you may find that the albergues are full and you will have almost no time to look around and see the City and Cathedral. My advice is to pre-book a hotel room so you know you have a bed when you arrive.

I always stay at the Hotel Paris, Calle Ancha 18, Leon 24003 Tel: Leon (0034) 987238600 hotel@hotelparisleon.com . The hotel is in the main street about 75m from the Cathedral and the main street is the Camino route!! A single room cost me €40 a night last year. There are many alternative small hotels to stay in within 10 minutes walk of the Cathedral.

If you call at the Tourist Information Office, they will give you a list of alternative hotels and a very useful map of Leon. There are very good concerts ranging from pop to cathedral organ music in the peak summer months and Festivals and the Tourist office will tell you what is on.

You can still get your Pilgrim Passport from the Nuns or Municipal Albergue, but you avoid being off the street at 9.30pm!! Leon is just coming alive at that time and there are great places to eat and drink just off either side of the main street. It would be a great pity to miss the best of what Leon has to offer. The Cathedral concerts do not start until 10pm!!

On leaving Leon bound for Santiago, many/most of your fellow travellers will catch the bus from the bottom of the main street by the river to a place called La Virgen del Camino which is on the outskirts of Leon and which saves you about 7kms walking through industrial estates. Unless you are an avid student of late 1900's industrial architecture, the Leon industrial estates are well worth a miss!!

The bus stop for La Virgen is right at the bottom of the main street, just before the bridge over the river. As you walk down the main drag towards the river and arrive at the bridge, the bus stop is on your right.

On your left about 50m away is McDonald's. There are probably a lot of readers preparing for their first Camino who will announce that they would not darken the doors of a McDonald's. Many who have walked from St Jean to Leon, will have been dreaming of sinking their teeth into the biggest burger and fries on the menu. I have seen supposedly vegetarian pilgrims wolfing down a Big Mac with a huge smile on their face!!!

[Gazza]

Covey

Talking about Pilgrim Passports, I came across The American Pilgrim site which says they will mail Passports prior to journey commencment. Is there any difference in the Pilgrim Passports........ Are they all acceptable??

We start from Burgos abt 22/6...... Fist timer & just want to jump on that plane from Oz

Gazza

[Covey]

They are OK. There are National Associations affiliated to the Cathedral at Santiago for the UK, Eire, USA, Canada, France etc who can issue a Pilgrim Passport which is accepted by the main Pilgrim Office in Santiago.

A couple of years ago the Cathedral changed the rules regarding Pilgrim Passports issued WITHIN Spain. A lot of churches in Spain started issuing their own paperwork and even some tour companies started issuing their own, so the Cathedral cracked down, and now all pilgrim passports issued in Spain must be the approved Cathedral one. The passports issued by the various National Associations have always been OK, and remain so. This is why you will see that pilgrims who start in St Jean have a different design "Carnet de Pelerin" issued in France, from the "Credencial del Peregrino" issued in Spain.

Enjoy!!

[Gazza]

Covey

You guys are a wealth of knowledge and your site has been tremendously helpful.

I have spent many fun hours reading various Q's / answers & am now a true believer that there really isn't any dumb Q's. What somebody else asks, somebody else is thinking about.

I hope that after my virgin trip I may too be able to provide some help to your site, if that is permissable

Thanks again

Gazza

[Covey]

We all do our best!!

When I first joined this forum, I was struck by the fact that nobody was put down for asking simple questions, and everybody who answered posts did so with the sole intention of helping and encouraging those starting out. Some sites can seem intimidating, and some of the disparaging answers would put new comers off asking simple questions which were actually important to them.

I also try and ensure that new members get a speedy reply to any questions they ask. There is nothing more discouraging than to post, and then not get a reply for weeks!

I enjoy my annual amble down the Camino Frances (a creature of habit!!) and along with everyone else on the Forum who has done it before, enjoy being able to give something back by helping those who are just starting out on the planning phase.

[Covey]

IMGP9039..jpgGazza:

I assume you will spend your first night out of Burgos at Hontanas and then I would suggest you stay at IMGP9040..jpgthe private albergue "En El Camino" in Boadilla del Camino. It is just past the official albergue, and is like an oasis in a desert!IMGP9049..jpg

[Sil]

And, if you are a young, lone female, don't be taken in by the big brown eyes and gorgeous smile of Eduardo - owner and hospitalero - who is infamous on the camino for being a real Spanish gigolo and will offer you a memorable time!

[Covey]

That's where you need your Camino Grandfather to warn you about Eduardo's wine cellar, and invitations to "view" his collection!!

[Sil]

Well, I am old enough to play the part of Camino Grandmother - so I am warning all those young chicas on the Way not to fall for his charm! :-)

[Covey]

Well, between the charms of Eduardo and the young Brazilian guys who cruise the Camino, it should keep the youngsters amused, if it was not for the fact that most of us are too knackered from a days walk to seriously contemplate tripping the light fantastic!!

[Covey]

Anyway, it was not only the Young Chica's who were on the invite list for his wine cellar. I am reliably informed by a German lady that more mature wine is frequently opened in his cellar!

I had thought of opening a similar albergue...............................Ahhhhhhhh.. ..........

[Gazza]

Let me know when u open & I will come & help

I love red wine lol

Gazza

[dellarite]

My 19 year old daughter started walking in Leon a few days ago with a group of American students. She is having trouble finding anything for a vegetarian to eat besides bread and cheese. She will be on the trail for another 10 days. Any suggestions?

[Covey]

A vegetarian has a hard time on the Camino, mainly because you have a high energy burn from walking 25-30kms a day, yet the normal food available to the vegetarian pilgrim is not really high energy food.

Spanish food is very much in the meat and fish eating arena, and if you take away the meat and fish, you are usually left with salad items, bread and cheese!

The Pilgrim Menu which is the northern equivalent of the Menu del Dia is a 3 course "meal" available in most bars along the trail and normally consists of a starter which invariably is vegetable soup or mixed salad, followed by some form of grilled meat (either pork or chicken)or maybe some trout and chips, with either fruit or ice cream for sweet, together with a glass or two of red wine.

Everyone loses weight on the Camino because your calorie burn exceeds your energy input of the Pilgrim Menu in the evening, plus an assortment of bread and cheese and fruit during the day. The portions on the Pilgrim Menu are usually quite small because the Spanish bars are more interested in profit than our welfare and given that the average charge for the Pilgrim Menu is €8 - €11 ($6) inc wine you are not going to get a sumptuous meal.

Fruit is very plentiful and cheap and the shops sell dried fruit and nuts which have a high energy factor. The better supermarkets in the towns sell muesli and UHT milk. I quite often make a nice heavy weight vegetable soup with added pasta if there are a number of us who get tired of the Pilgrim Menu. Believe me, you get very very tired of the Pilgrim Menu!!!

Dairy products are not cheap in Spain, but readily available, so she is going to get very tired of eating cheese. Bread comes with everything the Spanish eat, and we all swear we will never eat another baguette by the time we get to Santiago!

Tell her to eat lots of bananas. Bananas are high in potassium which stops your muscles cramping. Chocolate is good being high in energy/sugar. Coke Cola (full strength red tin variety) is high in sugar and is quick release energy. Coke Zero is a complete waste and an expensive way of drinking water.

Tell her there is a large Burger King about 150m from the Cathedral in Santiago.

Sorry I cannot be of greater help!! but being a vegetarian on the Camino is hard!

[dellarite]

Thank you so much. We're pretty experienced travelers but for some reason it didn't occur to us (her) to check this out ahead of time. She did start out with chocolate energy squares from Vermont, plus some almonds and dried fruit. Thanks again. I will pass on your info.

[Covey]

It's a pity she did not find this Forum before she went as we tend to be low on theory, high on practicality.

Wish her "Buen Camino" from us all.

[dellarite]

I'm sending her your response and the link. She may connect! Thanks again!

[Tanya Yaksich]

Hi,my Sister tried to book in the Hostels or Auberges in Leon, none would take bookings, it's first in best dressed. She has found accomodation beginning july at the student dormitory near the city centre, " Residencia San Augustin ". They charge 30. euros double including breakfast. They have 3 websites: www.residenciasanagustin.com- reception@hosteleon.com- or residencia@hosteleon.com. I don't know if they speak english, forgot to ask her.
Cheers tanya

[Covey]

You cannot book a bunk in advance in any official albergue along the Camino Frances. The two albergues on the opening post are both official albergues where the majority of pilgrims aim for cos it is cheaper!

You can pre-book in many of the private albergues provided of course you know which one you want to stay at, the phone number, and remembering of course that many/most of the older generation Spanish don't speak English. The younger generation all learn English at school, but getting them to speak it is another matter!!

[Gazza]

Guys I am aware of the Bus out of Leon to avoid the industrial area (saving 7kms) . Is there something similar out of Burgos or is it unnecessary.
(One week to go)

Gazza

[HuskyNerd]

Some people like to skip the last few kms of the Camino going into Burgos, but going out of it one is quickly in countryside. If you can plan to stay an extra night in Burgos you won't regret it. A good place for a hotel stay to freshen up, do laundry, soak in the tub, and tour the city.

[Covey]

The walk out of Burgos is OK. The first 2kms from the big albergue behind the Cathedral winds through the streets and you have to be careful to pick up the Camino signs. Sometimes they can be obscured by scaffolding and building works and if you go at first light it is easy to miss one!.

You pass the huge prison on the edge of Burgos which does not exactly look like a holiday camp! I usually head for Hontonas which if it were not for the Camino, would still be a deserted village.

[nicksloanz]

The albergue at Boadillo del Camino really is fantastic (the one in the town centre, not the first one you come to). It really is an oasis. The food, the lawns, the pool, it's truly luxurious.

[Puli]

Wow! Lots of great information. My husband and I are planning on walking Leon to Santiago in May/June 2011. Is this the best time? We are fairly fit as we walk on Table Mountain in Cape Town every day - would 2 weeks be sufficient time? Also rain pancho or rain cover for my backpack and rain jacket for me? Would also love to hear about the best places to sleep, eat and explore?
Thank, Barbara

[Puli]

Hi, I see that you are a fellow South African. My husband and I are planning our first Camino and are planning on going in May/June 2011. Would love to here from you as regards the Leon to Santiago route - any useful info would be most welcome. How much money does one have to bank on per day? What to take and hiking boots or running shoes? Pancho or rain jacket and rain cover for our packs? Any amazing places to stay along the route? Would be great to hear from you.
Cheers, Barbara

[HuskyNerd]

Hi Puli ~

Welcome to the Forum and congrats on your upcoming camino. Leon is a great place to pick up the camino, though you'll want to be aware that the first several kilometers are through the suburbs and industrial areas. It can feel a little bleak, but it will make you appreciate and enjoy the upcoming forests and mountains. May/June is a fine time to go (I'll be on the camino then, too, but starting in France). I was in Leon in early June 2008 and the weather was perfect. You're right to bring either a rain poncho or rain jacket and pack cover (my preference).

There are lots of great sites to see in this stretch. If you're into churches (like me) you'll want to get a guidebook and learn about the history of this area. Leon has a gorgeous cathedral, for instance, but it's easy to miss the Collegiate Church of San Isidro which is quite old and full of history. If you are able to spend a full day in Leon you'll enjoy walking, shopping, and (if it's the weekend) an exuberant nightlife. I stay at the Posada Regia, which is a boutique-ish hotel, right in the thick of things. If you're into luxury the Parador Hotel in Leon is a very big treat.

If you're staying in albergues you're set for lodging. If not you'll discover there are 1-3 star hotels all along the way in this stretch, with prices at 50E or less. When I did this portion of the camino with my wife she refused to stay in albergues, so we stayed at hotels and each evening we reviewed the Brierley guidebook and called ahead to make a reservation, just to be certain we had a room. This was August, so it was a little more crowded, and actually we never had a problem getting a room.

Yep, you can do this stretch in 2 weeks if you average about 22-23 kms per day. If your pace is 4 kms/hr that's about 8 hours of walking. There are a couple of mountainous stretches between Leon and Santiago -- walking up to Cruce de Ferro and walking up to O'Cebreiro. If you're walking those steep mountains above Capetown you should be fine, conditioning-wise. You might want to carry a 10 kilo pack one day just to see how it feels.

Hope this helps. Buen Camino.

[Puli]

Thanks for your help, Huskynerd, we have actually just bought the John Brierley guidebook and have been doing quite a bit of reading on the Net. Starting to get excited about the whole thing. The plan is to stay in the albergues as far as possible. Hope you enjoy your walk.

[Puli]

Hi, I just have one more question regarding camera equipment. What is the size or weight of camera that one should take? I have a Nikon D3000 which my husband feels is too bulky - is he correct or can I take it along?

[HuskyNerd]

I'd have to agree with your husband. I think the ideal camino camera is one of the pocket-size digital cameras, with a good lens for dark interiors and a good mechanical zoom. I've taken my Panasonic Lumix to 4 continents and seldom envied my wife with her multiple lenses and Nikon D90.

Most important to me on the camino is to keep my camera in a pouch on my chest strap for easy access. People who keep their camera in their pack seem to take fewer pictures, since removing their pack is necessary to access their camera.

You might enjoy my YouTube video with photos of my 2008 Camino.

Buen camino.

[HuskyNerd]

Oops. Here my video: YouTube - Camino de Santiago 2008

The video doesn't show picture quality very well, so here's a link to my Picasa photo album if you'd like to see the photos in higher resolution: Picasa Web Albums - Sandy Brown - Santiago Cami...