First timers!!!!

[Sophie Garcia]

Hi all

This is my first time that I am going to do the camino with friends and I dont have an absolute clue in organising this!!! I have read about the need of a pilgrim passport, and a few things but really Im lost.
I'm aiming at a three day walk, so I would be very grateful for good advice..
Thanks
Sophie

[HuskyNerd]

Did you mean "three day walk" or "three week walk"? There's not much you can do on the Camino in 3 days, I'm sad to say. Most people take 30-35 days to cover the 800 kms. With 3 days you'll have to really push it to make the 100km minimum to receive a Compostele, but at least having a credentiale would allow you to stay overnight in albergues (hostels).

Here are some thoughts for potential 3-day walks which have a largish city on one end or the other for ease of public transport:

1. Pamplona to Logrono - walk through the wine country via Cirauqui and Monjardin - 94 kms
2. St Jean Pied de Port to Pamplona - over the Pyrenees and through Basque country - 68 kms, but a big hill to start, overnights in Roncesvalles and Larasoana
3. Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Burgos - great town to start, over the Montes de Oca for lots of greenery, but grim suburbs into Burgos - 72 kms
4. Burgos to Carrion de los Condes - some great small towns of the Meseta, though hot and dry depending on season - 83.7 kms
5. Leon to Ponferrada - over the hills to Cruce de Ferro via some nice small towns. A long 101 kms due to altitude changes
6. Ponferrada to O'Cebreiro - a nice walk through Castille/Leon wine country plus a more challenging hike up to O'Cebreiro, then a sweet walk to Triacastela - 72 kms

Those would be my choices for a 3 day walk. I suggest you go to http://www.godesalco.com/plan/frances to plan your stages. Once you settle on your starting point you should be able to get your credentiale (pilgrim passport) at your starting point.

Too bad to have so little time! Buen camino!


I'd suggest going to

[HuskyNerd]

Oops, should also have said that if you push it you could get your Compostele (completion certificate) at Santiago by beginning at Sarria and walking the 100 kms required. Think of Santiago as having a 100-km radius circle around it and you have to start outside the circle to get your Compostele. Most people do 20-25 kms/day, so 33 kms/day average may be expecting a lot w/o some training.

Buen camino!

[Sophie Garcia]

Thanks for your prompt reply.......I'm still lost lololo......let me explain what I imagine the Camino consists of. I'm driving up there from Gibraltar, parking the car somewhere safe in Santiago, and getting a bus or train outwards to return on a three day walk. Arriving at Santiago to visit the Cathedral and attend Mass etc...
Am I completely wrong??? What is a compostele? and how do i book to stay in the albergues and where is a good starting point for a three day walk that is EASY as it's my first time........
I hope I havent totally confused every1 ))))))
Sophie

[HuskyNerd]

Ah, I get it. What a nifty idea. At least you'll get to see Santiago and have the experience of the Camino. Here are some random things for you to consider:

1. This is a Holy Year, which means that St. James ("Santiago" in Spanish) Day lands on a Sunday. That means that there are about 2x the number of pilgrims arriving in Santiago every day, especially as July 25, St. James Day itself, gets closer.
2. The most crowded of all sections of the Camino is the last 100 kms into Santiago. Depending on the exact timing of your visit you'll have lots and lots and lots of fellow walkers in this final stretch;
3. The albergues will be unusually crowded and overflow space will be necessary in school gyms etc. You can't make reservations at the hostels (albergues). It's always on a first-come, first-served basis;
4. To stay in an albergue you need to have a pilgrim passport (a credentiale). This is a small folded paper blank document that describes who you are, where you're from and has blanks to be stamped at albergues along the way.
5. If you walk a minimum of the last 100kms into Santiago, you can present your stamped credentiale at the cathedral office and receive a formal certificate of completion -- a Compostela. This has your name in Latin and the date of your arrival and lots of other Latin words that say congratulations.
6. If you want an easy 3 days, you are unlikely to get that by starting in the traditional short-distance starting point of Sarria. This is 114 kms outside Santiago and is the largest town with easiest connections that is approx 100 kms from Santiago. A 3-day walk from Sarria would be 38 kms/day which is torture for a first-timer. Even starting short of Sarria, say in Barbadelo, would mean 33 kms/day. All this is to say that you are unlikely to be able to walk the minimum 100 kms required to receive a Compostele.
7. This frees you to start closer. If you can pull off 22 kms/day you could start at Palas de Rei with a first overnight at Melide or Ribadiso and a second overnight at Rua or O Pedrouzo. Choose your walking stages by going to this link http://www.godesalco.com/plan/frances
8. Until you choose your starting point you can't really determine how to get there from Santiago. Suffice to say there are buses that can take you there from Santiago.
9. Everything I've said applies to the Camino Frances, the most popular walking route to Santiago de Compostela. There are also other routes, like the Via de la Plata (which I'm walking this year). This is less crowded and affords a similar pilgrimage experience. The traditional 100km starting point on this route is at the town of Ourense. Using the Godesalco site http://www.godesalco.com/plan/plata you can plan similarly as above. The advantages to this route is use of the train vs. the bus and smaller crowds.

Have I confused you even more? I hope not! If you need more specific help once you've chosen your starting point (i.e. bus schedules and trains), let us know.

Buen camino!
Sandy Brown
Seattle USA

[Sophie Garcia]

Thanks so much, I'm definately begining to get a clearer picture......and realising that I need to start training lol.......
You mention the pilgrim passport as a definate must to be able to stay in the albergues, but if I walk for a shorter distance than 100kms will I find trouble in being allowed to stay in the albergues????

[Sophie Garcia]

Sandy, I've been checking out the link you sent, and if I aimed at a 20km a day give or take, I could do the walk in 5 days and do the 100 kms !!!!
Does that sound reasonable for a first timer???

[HuskyNerd]

Yes, absolutely! The average person seems to do 20-25 kns/day. Setting aside 5 days means less rush. If you start at Sarria as per custom, you're looking at 114 kms total, or 23 kms/day for 5 days. At 5kms/hr that about 5 hrs/day of walking. All very doable with no mountain ranges to climb between Sarria and Santiago. FYI you can catch a bus from Santiago to Sarria. There's info in this forum if you need details.

Buen Camino!

[Sophie Garcia]

Hiya........ok It gets better!!! That sounds the route for me......not mountainy and doable! Where do I get the pilgrim passport from??? A few more quieries have popped into my head.....
Do I take my hair-dryer?? or will there be one in the albergues??
How much does the albergues cost per night??
What is a silk sleeping bag liner??
Are the showers in a good state?? is there hot water for every1 ?? lol
Where do you buy your 'picnic lunch' from? and how much am I looking at daily??
Thanks sooooooooo much

[HuskyNerd]

Hi Sophie,
Nice to see you on FB. I'm including answers to your questions here so that others can check my responses for accuracy and also in case other future peregrinos/as have similar questions:
1) Hairdryer - knowing that you must have a hairdryer because you get headaches w/o one I recommend it be the absolute most lightweight one you can find. There are no hairdryers in the albergues -- remember, these are primitive bathrooms where you're fortunate to have a sink, toilet, and shower. And extremely fortunate if the shower has a curtain covering it. Pilgrims need to be prepared to leave most of their modesty at home, as well as their temptation to primp. :-) Everyone recognizes it's a long hike and no one will judge you if you didn't put on make-up or if your hair is pushed up into a baseball cap.
2) Cost of albergues is free (meaning a 5-10 Euro donation) or 5-10 Euros. If you plan on 10E per night you should be fine;
3) A silk sleeping bag liner looks like this: Sea To Summit Silk Travel Sleeping Bag Liner - Traveler at REI.com and essentially is a thin cloth sheet sewn like a sleeping bag that provides plenty of coverage for an overnight in a warm albergue;
4) Don't count on hot water for everyone. FYI most pilgrims shower in the afternoon rather than the morning. This spreads out use of the showers over several hours which helps on the hot water usage, but I've had plenty of cold pilgrim showers and on a hot day that's sometimes to be preferred;
5) If a 'picnic lunch' means a bocadillo (sandwich) and a piece of fruit it's available at most bar/cafes in the morning. I stumble into a bar/cafe after leaving the albergue in the morning, order my cafe con leche and pain au chocolat as well as my bocadillo con queso y tomate. Ask for your bocadillo "para llevar" and they'll generally offer it (either queso, jamon, or chorizo on a huge baguette) wrapped in foil paper. Usually they have an apple or orange available. That, plus your water container, is your picnic lunch. On the road from Sarria to Santiago, which you're taking, you should note that bar/cafes are plentiful and frequent. Most all have outdoor tables, so rather than carrying your lunch you can just order at a bar/cafe and enjoy the weather. If you're trying to save money either do as I mentioned above or find an alimentacion (small grocery store) along the Camino and shop there for whatever you like.
6) I think you'd also asked about where to get your pilgrim passport. This is called a 'credentiale' and is available from your British Confraternity of St. James via post or can be secured on arrival in Sarria. I do not recall offhand if it is available at the municipal albergue or the Cathedral or both. Let me know if you still need the answer and I'll find it for you. On past posts in this Forum there are also instructions for taking the bus from Santiago to Sarria.

Hope this helps. You didn't mention when you're going. Remember, this is the Holy Year and leading up to July 25 the crowds will be spectacular.

Buen camino!

[Sophie Garcia]

Hi Sandy, yes thanks, if I have all my quieries in one place, it makes it easier for me to re-read them!!........ok now that you have told me that the 25th is the feast day of St. James, and was planning to be there round that date, I think we'll plan to be ON the camino before the 25th, is that a good idea????
I saw in a another post that it is preferably to have the sleeping bag BUG treated!!! please explain lololo...............and how do you do that???
I'm having difficulty finding out how to best obtain the pilgrim passport, if you could help I'd be much appreciated.....I also read on the main forum that if I start from Sarria I would need 2 daily stamps to get a 'credentiale' is that so??
Another curiosity----do the albergues provide towels for shower????
Is the use of trainers ok for the walk, or does it have to be hiking boots???

Please guide me here....On arrival to Santiago, we are staying overnight and then an early rise to travel to Sarria and on arrival start walking straight away, is that correct?????
Do you also recommend that from Sarria to Santiago we stay a day without walking to enjoy a certain 'pueblo' or special touristic site????
Many many thanks
Sophie

[HuskyNerd]

Hi Sophie ~
All great questions as usual. Here again are my best attempts to answer:
1) To be on the Camino before July 25 should be fine, just remember that Santiago will be a madhouse on the weekend of July 24/25. I'll be there then myself for that very reason -- just to see and enjoy the special day. Remember also that July/August are the biggest months and 2010 is likely the biggest year for the Camino. You'll find big crowds, but the albergues likely will also make room for the crowds by opening up sleeping areas in school gyms, etc.
2) Sorry that I'm not the expert on bug treating sleeping bags, though I've seen posts on this site about that. I've never had a bedbug problem on the Camino myself. I know there are cans of spray bug repellent that will keep the little critters away, but best to search this site and/or Google for the current best suggestions;
3) The very best way to receive your pilgrim passport is to contact the Confraternity of St. James. Google that name and you'll find the address and phone number. They can send you your credentiale. If you don't feel there's enough time for that, when you arrive at Sarria go to the pilgrim office. Here's a quote from Covey about how to find it:

There is a tourist/pilgrim office which opens most of the year at the top of Sarria in the main street which is on the Camino route. There are a number of albergues within 30m of the office. The bus stop from Lugo is at the bottom of the hill, so just head up hill toward the church and then turn right on the road/pedestrian way by the church and wander along to the office and a bed for the night!

4) No towels at the albergues for your shower, sorry. As I mentioned, they're very primitive bathrooms and the services there are limited to a fairly clean toilet, shower, and sink. Most have modest kitchens. Your best choice is to find a lightweight hiking towel. These dry quickly and are surprisingly absorbent;
5) You'll see many local Spanish pilgrims with trainers in this short stretch of the Camino, but having something with soles that thin just means more wear and tear on your feet. For this distance a hiking boot, light hiking boot, or hiking sandal is best. Primarily you're looking for a good thick sole, some traction, some padding, and good arch support;
6) In terms of arrival and timing to Sarria, you should know that the Santiago to Sarria bus leaves at 1800 and takes 3 hours to Sarria (There are more buses from Santiago to Lugo, then connecting from Lugo to . Considering this you'll probably want to spend your first night in Sarria. Your first task will be to round up your credentiale. Due to the lateness of your arrival this may be one reason to get your credentiale via mail from the Confraternity vs. hoping to get one at Sarria. If not, try the various albergues, which generally can be expected to have credentiales (especially in Sarria, a common starting-point);
7) Yes, two stamps per day on your credentiale is wise. Almost every bar/cafe and church between Sarria and Santiago can oblige and it's fun to get stamps as you go along;
8) I don't know of any great attractions between Sarria and Santiago at which I'd stop. Enjoy the ancient church at Portomarin and make sure to try the pulp along the way.

Buen camino!

[Sophie Garcia]

Ok Sandy.....I think I got one last question lololololo.........where is the best place to park the car in Santiago???? and is the bus stop for Sarria central ???
Thanks

[Sophie Garcia]

Ok Sandy....I think I have 2 last questions....lolololol......where is the best place to park the car in Santiago?? and then get the bus to Sarria??
Also if we decide to stay in hostels along the way rather than the albergues, is it necessary to book them in advance?? Any idea on prices? I know they must very but a 2* roughly??? will all the pueblos have alternative accomodation to the albergues??
Thanks

[HuskyNerd]

Hi Sophie ~
I'm so glad the trip is going to work out for you and your friend. Now that you've decided to stay at hotels you always know you'll have a plug for your hairdryer!

I've never parked in Santiago or ridden the bus in/out of Sarria, but another post on this Forum mentioned this company: Reserva de estacionamento as a place to park your car. Apparently it's near the airport and costs about 5 Euros/day. I tried Google Maps for the location of the Estacion de Autobus in Sarria and it looks to be about 10-12 blocks north of the Camino. Sarria's a pretty tiny town, so I think most everything is pretty close.

Buen Camino, Sophie!

[HuskyNerd]

Hi Sophie ~
I'm so glad the trip is going to work out for you and your friend. Now that you've decided to stay at hotels you always know you'll have a plug for your hairdryer!

I've never parked in Santiago or ridden the bus in/out of Sarria, but another post on this Forum mentioned this company: Reserva de estacionamento as a place to park your car. Apparently it's near the airport and costs about 5 Euros/day. I tried Google Maps for the location of the Estacion de Autobus in Sarria and it looks to be about 10-12 blocks north of the Camino. Sarria's a pretty tiny town, so I think most everything is pretty close.

Buen Camino, Sophie!

[Sophie Garcia]

Hi Sandy
Thanks so much for all your help......)))))))) I won't say goodbye just yet, incase I come up wif more queries!!!!! (only joking) lolololo
Thanks again
Sophie

[Sophie Garcia]

Hi Sandy
We've managed to book into hotels along the way!!!! yuhooooo........and started training as well lolololo...........are going to be there with your family????
We're starting the walk on the 4th August, finishing in Santiago hopefully on the 11th !

Buen camino

[HuskyNerd]

Congratulations, Sophie! That's really great. You're going to miss the biggest rush of pilgrims since you're delaying until early August. I'm leaving on Sunday and will be in Santiago 25/7/10. Buen camino!

[isabnk]

Hello Everybody,

First of all I want to thank Sandy for taking the time to answer all the questions to all of us anxious first timers! Sandy, you are such a giver!

I want a recommendation from you regarding my camino:

I am planning to start from sarria.
1. Coming from NYC to Madrid on the 18th, arriving 19th at 7 am i can do the following:
A. take train to Leon, transfer in leon to another train to sarria getting there at 6:37 pm. sleeping in sarria. start fresh next day.
B. take trainhotel to sarria from madrid leaving at 22:00 pm and getting to sarria at 7 am on 20th - to start camino out of the train.
2. My husband is meeting me in Santiago de Compostela on the 25th. We have reservations for that night and the night after at hotel avenida:
a. Should i get to Santiago on the 24th or 25th?
Can you notice my anxiety?
Thank You Very Much,
Isabel

[HuskyNerd]

Congratulations on your upcoming Camino! I'm sure you know you've chosen the busiest time of all to be on the Camino, and the busiest stretch of the Camino on which to walk. But with the right attitude you'll have a super, super time.

I'd certainly choose the option 1.A. if it were me -- just so I'd get a reasonable night's sleep prior to starting out. As far as SDC on the 24th or 25th the way I understand it is that the 24th is the "party" night, with street festivals and fireworks, while the 25th is the mass in the cathedral and more formal activities. I have reservations for the 25th and 26th in SDC, but since I'm overnighting near SDC on the 24th I'll likely take a cab or bus into the city that night to enjoy the atmosphere. Based on some numbers I read somewhere there will be approx 2000 pilgrims waiting in line to get their Compostele at the cathedral office after arriving on this special holy day, so a big chunk of the day on July 25 will be waiting in line for a Compostele marked "July 25, 2010."

Buen camino!

[isabnk]

dear Sandy, thank you very much for your prompt response, even though it will be busy, you still manage to calm me down, hope to see you around, ill keep in touch, buen camino!