First Camino, starting Last week July at St Jean Pied de Port

[Gerrym]

Myself and my wife are planning our first Camino this year. Due to other things going on we have to do it between last week July (23rd) to 1st/2nd week September. We both have some fitness, so the first of what I am sure will be many questions is, are we in for anything especially bad about this time of year.
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

[Gerrym]

Just to add some more information, we will be coming from Dublin, I'm 58 my wife is.... well I'll let her tell herself

[grayland]

Welcome to the forum.
Late July and August will be very hot on the Meseta (after Burgos). Be sure to pack very light and keep your pack weight down to an absolute minimum.
You will be going during one of the busy times....but there is no reason to be overly concerned about that. Enjoy your Camino.

[Covey]

End of July is a good time to go.

It will be warm to hot, not much rain and the evenings will be warm, so no need for the thermals, though you will need a fleece for the evenings on the Meseta, between Burgos and Leon. The afternoon temperature on the Meseta can easily get to 35C but in the evenings it will drop to 25C HOWEVER because you are not really acclimatised to the temperatures, you will feel chilled by the 10c drop and will be walking around in a fleece in the evenings thinking it is bloody cold and the Spanish will be in shirtsleeves!

Start walking at dawn and see how it goes, but do not walk after 2pm. It feels very hot after 2pm because the ground has heated up and is radiating heat, but the most important reason is that a cold beer tastes pretty good around 3pm and you need to be relaxed, showered and sitting under the shade thinking that you have done quite well today! Two beers is even better! Do not drink too many beers because you have to repeat the performance all over again tomorrow!!!

Walk at a steady comfortable pace, drink lots of water, look up and enjoy the company of your fellow Pilgrims and the miles will fly by.

[Covey]

Sorry, one important observation I did miss.

Whenever you see a couple walking the Camino together, the man always has the larger and heavier pack.

I wonder why?

"Do you, Mary, take this poor baggage mule to your lawfully wedded slave?"

[grayland]

The man is usually (not always) larger and heavier.

[Gerrym]

Thanks all for the encouragement. I'm starting lists of lots of things to do and get, what's the story on sleeping bags and liners are these brought because bed linen is not supplied, or people would rather not use the supplied linen. Should we be bringing season 1/2 sleeping bags.

[Covey]

In the albergues you get a mattress and a pillow but no bedding. In July/August I only take a silk sleeping bag liner which is treated with anti bug chemicals (Permetherin) It is warm in the evenings in the albergues so sleeping bags are not really needed.

A single fitted sheet treated with Permetherin is a good idea and will keep you bug free and happy.

[janemaryokeefe]

I would think you'd be all set! The weather tends to be pretty nice at this time of year! Just take it easy the first week till you're in condition, and you should be fine.
jane

[janemaryokeefe]

Be careful about the water. I had bloodwork done before I left on the camino and was perfectly fine. When I returned, had a physical and bloodwork, and my blood was at toxic levels high in lead, aluminum, cadmium, and mercury!!! Had to go on a detox program to rid myself of the metals in my blood. It was serious! If I were to do it again, I would drink bottled water.

[Gazza]

Covey, so true. When my wife wife & I walked the Camino last year all the little nic nacs seem to find there way into my pack. Anything that was being "shared" ie first aid also found their way into my pack.
Think it must be in the fine print.

As for walking Jul/Aug I strongly concur, start early & finish by about 2pm. Can get very hot from then on through Burgos to Leon (Meseta)

[Covey]

JaneMary............. Your comments on the water are interesting as I have always been wary of what comes out of the fountains and taps in the small towns and villages along the Camino Frances.

I also only use bottled water because being an ex soldier I always remember the dictum that 90% of all disease is waterborne, and drinking bad water is the quickest way to get ill.

The water in places like Pamplona, Burgos, Leon and Santiago is OK because they have modern water treatment plants, but I can't say I have ever seen a water treatment plant in the rural parts of northern Spain.

The Spanish are fine drinking their water, because they have been doing it for years and their internals are used to it, but often those who come from very clean water areas find their internals cannot cope with what is supposed to be clean water, and they end up with upset stomachs.

Trying to walk with a dose of D&V is impossible, and rural Spain is not overpopulated with public toilets.

My advice is always to use bottled water and avoid ice in drinks in rural areas.

[Gerrym]

Thanks again for all the comments and tips. With regard to the water we will always try to use bottled water as usual when away. As we prepare for our trip I will keep this thread going as I need advice, once again many thanks, Gerry

[Gerrym]

Hi Guys, when we get to Santiago we intend staying somewhere in the general area, not decided on yet, however we would like a change of clothes then. Is it possible to send on a suitcase from St Jean to Santiago for storage until we get there ?

[grayland]

Another opinion on the water.....never had any problem with the fountains available along the way. I filled my bottle whenever I passed a fountain along with almost every other Pilgrim. Never heard of anyone having any problem.
We have pretty much traveled the world over the past 15 years and always are most careful about water and always use only bottled water anywhere except Europe, Oz, NZ and Japan.......however Spain is not a third world country and the water is as safe as anywhere.
Use bottled water if you wish but do not be afraid of the fountains, etc, except where it is marked as non-potable.

[grayland]

Hi Guys, when we get to Santiago we intend staying somewhere in the general area, not decided on yet, however we would like a change of clothes then. Is it possible to send on a suitcase from St Jean to Santiago for storage until we get there ?

These people have taken over the previous luggage storage that was operated by Ivar in Santiago
Luggage Storage « pilgrimhelper

Thier email address is: info@badalada.es

[janemaryokeefe]

Hi, Grayland!
I've also been around the world---India, N.Z. Oz,......... In Spain I only drank out of potable fountains as well. I had to have my blood tested for life insurance before I left, and my blood work was excellent. I had a blood profile when I returned and all fingers pointed to the water. I wasn't sick, because metal poisoning doesn't have visible effects until it's too late--------heart problems, kidney problems, memory problems. I also spoke to an Italian herbalist, who is native to Italy, who told me that the little towns still have old lead pipes from long ago and it would be wise to avoid drinking water from the fountains. Just fair warning! I've always been in excellent health and would like to keep it that way, and would like others to avoid similar problems. Buen Camino!

[grayland]

Jane..
I am very, very careful about water.....but have no worry in Spain nor do any of my many Pilgrim friends. I would guess that it is possible to run across troublesome water anywhere. I would submit that if the water was a problem that we would hear widespread warnings from other pilgrims. This is one of the first warnings that I have heard over several years on this as well as other forums.
We differ on this point.
I just don't want to alarm people and would encourage anyone with concerns to do a little research on goggle or Camino forums.
Buen Camino

[Covey]

I used to own a house in southern Spain north of Alicante, and we had two water supplies. There was a drinking water supply which was supposedly good to drink, and there was "town water" which was untreated and was used for watering gardens, washing cars and streets etc.

80% of my neighbors were Spanish, most of whom lived and worked in Alicante during the week and in Alicante they drank the drinking supply, but in Moraira, they did not trust the water and drank bottled water and made ice with bottled water.

I fitted a fairly sophisticated water filter system to my drinking water supply to protect my kids, and every week I would have to back flush the filter and the sand within it. I then knew why my neighbors would not drink the drinking water.

I appreciate that Spain is not some third world country, but as you walked the Camino Frances trail in to Estella thinking of the free wine fountain at the winery on the way out of Estella the following morning, you might have missed the raw sewage being pumped straight in to the river by the little humpbacked bridge which then flows through the town. I prefer to stay at the Albergue Anfas run by a disabled charity on the other side of town to avoid the stench of sewage in the river in June - Sept which flows past the back of the official albergue .

Another old soldier theory is that if you can see through the water and see the bottom of a stream/river, then the water is OK to swim in. If it is deep green, then best to leave your cozzy in your pack.

[Covey]

Greyland.......

There was an interesting thread on this Forum regarding possible water issues: Traveller's Diarrhea from bad water in an albergue

[Gerrym]

Update on our preparations, we are really tuning in to the preparations now. We are walking 10/12 km every second day and 20km once a week in training. Starting now to accumulate the items to bring, bearing in mind the gerenal advice of no more than about 10kg in the bag. So, sleeping bag or not, walking poles or not ?

[Covey]

I would take either a single fitted sheet treated with Permethrin or a silk sleeping bag liner also treated with Permethrin. This year I will carry both as a bit of an experiment. The fitted sheet needs to be as light as possible!

The subject of walking poles comes up frequently!! I am in favor of carrying one of the telescopic poles and it spends about 80% of its time strapped to the outside of my pack. The rest of the time I use it to help my balance when descending steep rocky paths and any downhill track which has loose surfaces. It is not a matter of age, but balance, and you need to remember that you have a pack on your back which changes your centre of gravity and balance.

You frequently see pilgrims who carry a stick in each hand all the time, irrespective of terrain. I really cannot see any valid reason to use walking poles when walking through cities or on paved surfaces, but many do. I just wish people would use the rubber tips to spare the rest of us the infernal clatter of multiple metal spikes hitting the surface. Sometimes it looks and sounds like some si-fi film with curious multi legged creatures scuttling through town!!

[Gerrym]

Arriving in St Jean in the afternoon of July 30th. Will we be able to get a room in an Albergues or can we book in advance. Hope to start walking on Sunday AM.

[Covey]

Best place to stay is: L'Esprit du Chemin

See if you can get a booking as they are almost opposite the Pilgrim Office in St Jean. The volunteers in the Pilgrim Office will point those who do not have reservations anywhere to one of the many private houses who take in Pilgrims.

[Gerrym]

Now we can say we are starting next month,(leave Dublin 29th July) we are really revving up for the walk. We intend taking first four days easy enough and intend doing St Jean to Roncesvalles in two days, anyone know if there is a Albergue further along than Orisson as it seems to be only 8km along the track.

[Covey]

Orisson is the only albergue on the route.

[grayland]

The Orisson albergue is the only one on the Route de Napoleon. This does break the first day up as the Orisson to Roncesvalles section is then only about 17km the second day. I have only walked straight thru to Rocesvalles each time but can see why many people make this stop the first day.
The other route thru Valcarlos is about the same overall distance SJPP to Roncesvalles and offers a stop at Valcarlos (and earlier) which is about 12.5km out of SJPP.

[Lipka149]

Gerry –

Considering the efforts you are putting into training, you should have the physical capability to get to Roncesvalles. That first day out of St. Jean is as much a mental challenge as it is a physical one. To deal with the mental aspect, I would suggest that you start at daybreak, enjoy the first few km, and pay no attention to those that pass you. Rest a bit in Huntto, and deal with any "hot spots" on your feet before they get worse. Rest again in Orisson. Eat something, change your socks, adjust the lacing on your boots when you put them back on, and fill up on water. Most of the uphill after Orisson is not as bad as the uphill getting there, so be not afraid ! There is one steep climb that looks daunting. I took it 25 steps at a time, resting between each 25. Again, pay no attention to those that take the whole slope in one bound ! Rest again at Roland's Fountain, fill up your water, wash your feet, change your socks, and enjoy a bit of level ground for a few km. One more slope to climb and the reward is an incredible view over Navarre. Stop here and eat something. Then head down through the trees (shade !) and pick up a walking stick. You may find that going DOWN is harder than going UP ...and for that there is little you can do to train for.

If you choose to go from St. Jean to Roncesvalles on that first day, and I hope you do, it will set the tone for your entire journey. It’s tough for a reason, Gerry. I encourage you to rise to the challenge and find out that reason for yourself. Go for it, hermano ! Ultreya !

[grayland]

Great post Lipka....you captured it just right. It seems that everyone has a terror about the first day due to the many posts describing pain and destruction.

Nice job of easing the worry. This way people can feel a little better if they elect to walk thru or can't get into Orisson. It can be done by all except the unprepared.

[Covey]

An alternative "plan " is to wait until the morning and look up into the hills and see what the weather is doing against the forecast you will have got the previous evening when you visited the Pilgrim Office.

I have done the Route Napoleon "over the top" 4 times and the "winter road" through Valcarlos once (last year). My first trip was in September 2006 and the weather was brilliant. Hardly a cloud in the sky and from the top you could see for ever and the air was wonderfully clean. Each year thereafter, I went either in August or September and the weather got worse and worse and in September 2009 it rained all the way from St Jean to Roncesvalles and we were in mist/low cloud from just outside St Jean to about 2kms short of Roncesvalles.

In 2010 I decided to take the winter road through Valcarlos as the weather on the top looked indifferent and we had a super walk. When we were talking in the albergue about the route and I said I was taking the lower route, everybody looked at me and thought I was mad walking the winter route in September! The next morning I was ready to set forth at dawn and a Canadian lady asked if she could come with me because she felt unwell. When we got the where the road splits just outside St Jean and the winter route goes right and the "over the top" folk go left I found a group of my fellow pilgrims from the albergue who were "waiting to see what I was going to suggest" We all went right, had a very gentle wander through the valley and up through the hills, stopped to watch a very colorful wedding at one of the Valcarlos villages whilst we had a leisurely lunch before starting the climb up through the woods to Roncesvalles.

The Route Napoleon pilgrims walked for most of the day in cloud and had visibility of 5m on the top, and the general consensus was that we had the best of the deal taking the lower route.