What I learned in my short time on the Camino

[ClaireB]

It´s been a few days since I finished now and after digesting the experience a bit I thought I should put up a few bits and pieces on what I gained from my experience of the walk from Sarria to Santiago, i hope it´s useful!

• Most useful thing I took with me: lightweight merino long sleeved top - I wore it every day I was walking because it was a little chilly in Galicia
• Most useless thing: travel pillow - yes I did, it weighs next to nothing and only took up room I would have filled with something heavier. All the Albergues etc I stayed in had pillows with either linen or disposable pillow cases
• I wish I had brought: My own mug and bowl but I only needed them when I got to Santiago, if I was walking further I would take them
• Questionable purchase on the way: Innersoles in Leon, they only had one thickness which was nearly 1/2 a centimetre and I believe responsible for most of my blisters due to decreased room in the toes of my boots - but if <i didn´t have them I would have been walking on the hard inner surface of my boots due to my orthotics that only go half way in but can´t have insoles over them...
• The first hill of the morning is always the worst, particularly the one coming out of Sarria, I had a moment then when I thought; "if all the hills are like this I wont make it"
• A hot bath is one of the most wonderful things in the world after a long day of hiking, I don´t think I have ever appreciated a bath as much in my life even if it was only a half-length one!
• The pilgrims menu/dinner at an Albergue is one of the best ways to meet people and practice different languages.
• There are German´s everywhere! I think I met more German people than French or Spanish, though they were close behind in numbers
• Every person you meet along the way is a gift. I had some wonderful conversations and interesting evperiences, I took something from every encounter, even the bad ones!
• Cyclists need bells or to give you more room if they insist on using the walking trail, there is simply not enough room to pass in some places and I do not appreciate having to jump into a ditch to avoid being knocked into one (particularly first thing in the morning)
• Hiking poles make great rythm sticks if you are so inclined
• Take lots of photos! I was so absorbed with walking on the first two days that I didn´t take many photos and kinda regret it, the wild flowers were out en masse and the scenery was spectacular
• you can communicate with pretty well anyone using gestures, repetition and a smile (and pictures if you have to and happen to have a pen and piece of paper handy)
• The sunset at Finisterre is a must (even if you catch the bus) - I saw it for 2 nights in a row and both times it was among the most spectacular I have ever seen, made even more special by its significance to me after having walked. I also did the symbolic burning of a piece of clothing (my socks).

I had an amazing time on the Camino and met some amazing people. It has given me a slightly different outlook and I am definitely more relaxed and easy going, I wonder how long that will last once I get back home! I am still affected by my health issues and it was difficult having to stop every 3 hours to have my medication to keep my blood pressure up as it goes a little funny in the changeover time, but despite that I know I can accomplish the most important things and anything else will have its own time in my time.
I leave Spain today, my Camino is officially over in 6.5 hours. Thanks to everyone on this forum for your advice and encouragement
Claire

[Covey]

Claire, have a safe journey back home, and we look forward to hearing about your next trip down the Camino.. You will be back!!

The sunset at Finesterre to me is real closure on a Camino. Not being a Catholic, the Pilgrim Mass in Santiago has slightly less significance than to a Catholic, but all the tourists milling around inside the Cathedral taking photo's during the Pilgrim Mass seems to detract somewhat from the service.

Sitting on the beach with your friends watching the sunset at Finesterre is a far more meaningful experience!

[Lipka149]

A hot bath is one of the most wonderful things in the world after a long day of hiking, I don´t think I have ever appreciated a bath as much in my life even if it was only a half-length one!

You are so right, Claire. It just doesn't get any better than that !!!

[ClaireB]

I would have to agree with you Covey, I am not overly religious and always got bored during mass at school - this was just the same only (possibly) worse as I didn't understand a word of it!
It was still nice to be part of the pilgrim mass but the sunset was very special for me

[Precious1]

Your list of what you learned on the Camino, Claire, was great to relate to. One does learn to appreciate the small things. I must say I got great sleep because I brought a small down pillow.. I carried it in a small mesh bag outside my rucksack. That pilgrims' Mass at noon said something that crossed all religious and cultural boundaries for me. There was something universal in it of mankind's search for meaning to appeal to anyone who had done the Camino de Sant Yago. If I were to sum up what I took away from the Camino it is a sense of understanding what is important in life.

[Buffalo Girl]

Oh Claire, I can relate. And I'm sorry I didn't run into you on the Camino. We were there at the same time, and likely in the same places togehter.
I agree so much about the cyclists and the bells they should have on their bikes. I had a miserable time the last 3 days to Santiago because of the bikes on those trials. My children had joined me in Sarria for the last 100 km and we found ourselves in the midst of 4 groups of 30-50 cyclist families from Madrid on the Camino. The first group was 30, they came into the Albergue late, stayed up and partied late, and wreaked havoc with the showers and clotheslines. They parked their bikes in the common area and we had to climb over them to get out in the morning. Since they slept in, we were under siege on the trail when they came thundering at us later that morning. Since they had young kids with them they took frequent breaks which ment we would walk past the parked bikes and they would thunder past us over and over again throughout the day. There were times it was like you said...jumping out of the way and worrying if one of my kids or me were going to get hit comming down one of the hills on the narrow path by one of these people. Here I was telling my kids how great this trip was and all the peace and space....it made no sense.
For me, those last 3 days were

[ClaireB]

Oh Buffalo Girl that sounds awful! I did se a few very large groups of cyclists and it did get very tiring saying 'Buen Camino' to 30+ different people as they went past but I am very glad I avoided staying where they were!! And bikes filling the common room has to be a no-no surely!!

[ClaireB]

I've been writing out my Camino diary on my Blog and Unadarra has suggested I post it up here as well so why not! I hope you enjoy it! Obviously the photos wont work with it, to see them you'll have to check out my blog

Day 1 - Sarria - Mercadoiro (16km) - Expect nothing, gain everything

Yo soy Peregrino! Yes, I am officially a pilgrim.
This morning I woke up at ridiculous-o'clock (otherwise known as 4am) to catch the train from Leon to Sarria, supposedly leaving at 5am so could you be there for boarding at 4:45 please. I was a little worried about missing it, that is very early but the next train doesn't leave until 3pm or something like that so that would mean another day of cooling my heels before starting what I have come here to start. I suppose if that were to happen, when I look back later on I will be grateful for the heel cooling but I really just wanted to start walking!

Spain is a lot like Fiji; there is very little order or logic and nothing seems to happen exactly when and how you expect it to. The only difference is Fiji is more laid-back and Spain is loud, chaotic and hectic. I suppose now you can guess what happens next - yes, the train was late. And as the rule generally goes - what is late to start is usually late to finish - instead of arriving at Sarria at 8:45 it arrived at 9:30. This was to be my first (of many) exercise in patience and letting go of control along the Camino. The train was actually quite comfortable so i was able to get some sleep although I think there needs to be a law against men standing up to pee in the bathrooms of moving vehicles - enough said...

I started walking as soon as I got off the train, the Camino was easy enough to find - if I had missed the yellow arrows and street signs the unsought directions from a cheerful elderly Spanish man would have been enough! Once I left the main road behind and caught my first real view of the way I paused a minute to soak up the atmosphere, text my mother to let her know I had arrived at my start point and turned on my mp3 player to 'On my way' by the Proclaimers. I set off with excited anticipation - I had come so far already, just getting there was a great achievement for me and I was eager to experience the way for myself. With a spring in my stem and the beat of the music tapping out in my hiking poles I strode along the path which, for the first 500m out of Sarria, is quite flat and pleasant and green. After this comes what I have come to think of as 'the hill of death' which was so ridiculous and horrible that I did not think I would be able to do this thing after all if the rest of it was all like this - a rather terrifying thought after only just starting walking. Half way up the hill my heart rate was 187 - yeah, not so good and a rather irritating part of my medical condition (my blood pressure tends to go walkabout at irritating times so my heart races to compensate, not realising that this method is completely ineffectual and actually makes things worse). It turns out that the tachycardia was going to be a problem after all. I knew I would have challenges but that first hill made me realise that I would have to listen more to my body and let it be the guide instead of my stubbornness and determination to do this thing (Camino lesson 2). I know I've said it a lot in the past but they were just words, now it is real, now my ability to complete the Camino depends on me and my body getting along and having faith in each other - something we've never been very good at.

I met an American guy and his daughter early on in the day - it's a bit amusing when people 3 times your age are more concerned about your health and wellbeing than their own. You look at them and think 'wow, what an achievement at your age' then realise they're thinking 'wow, what an achievement with your health, you might drop at any moment - that sure make me feel better about my high blood pressure and dodgy knees'. Lesson 3 - stop making excuses, nobody is judging you - you're on the Camino that is an achievement in itself, so what if the old people are faster than you, at least you're here. We seemed to be travelling at around the same speed and kept passing each other (usually for me at my 3 hourly tablet break) all day. The way is beautiful and winds through the Galician countryside that was splendid with its mantle of wildflowers. Every turn is different and brings you through farmland, small villages, moss and ivy covered trees, old stone fences that have been there so long they no longer have a purpose, fields strewn with wildflowers of every hue, small cafe's and even a large eucalyptus tree. I was very excited! I had known that Galicia had eucalyptus but I had not expected to come across one so soon on the trail. I could smell it first and wondered why I felt so happy then I realised, I was so far from home and here was a piece of home waiting for me. Walking the way is so different to hiking in Australia - possibly due to the cows. Pilgrims give way to cows on the way (mainly because they cows don't exactly move where you want them too and are a bit too big to move yourself so it's easier to just wait for them) and in Galicia there are a LOT of cows!

There were a lot of groups walking, one large school group and a group with a guide that had their bags on a bus - cheats! My feet hurt, my knees hurt, I was tired, my heart raced and pounded every time I walked up any size hill but somehow I made it to Mercadoiro - not quite Portomarin which was my sort-of-intended stopping place meaning a 20km walk and in accordance with the 'stages' version of the Camino but it was enough for me. Besides, the last 5km to Portomarin was downhill and rather steep, an idea that my knees were not overly happy about. So I checked into the private Albergue which is lovely. There are 8 bunk rooms each with between 8 and 10 beds (when I arrived at 3pm there was already someone asleep in one), pilgrim menu at 7pm and breakfast at 7:30 - hopefully breakfast consists of more than pastry.

Now while I am writing this I am having a rest at the bar, icing my various complaining bits and having my first cup of tea since leaving Paris which I plan to follow with some wine. I am very glad I didn't end up ditching my long-sleeved merino shirt and am slightly regretting not bringing my light-weight polar fleece as it is rather cold (nearly the same as in Australia right now and easily 10 degrees colder than Paris). I think I need to source some better blister protection and treatment tomorrow as the dressing I have brought and placed on the blister on the ball of my foot just ends up scrunched up under my toes as I walk - time to investigate compeede I think! And I think that aiming for around 15km per day will be enough for me to go on with, we shall see.

Dinner at the bar was fantastic, the wine wasn't bad either! They sat everyone at a huge table and the waiter read out the options for the pilgrim menu (3 courses, all rather large). I had Paella then chorizo con huevo's (spanish sausage with egg) and melon for dessert - it was wonderful! The conversation was cheerful, friendly and very multicultural (with people representing Australia, England, Holland, Germany, France and Span) and the evening was just what I needed after a hard day of walking. I chatted to an English retiree and a Dutch woman. They had both started walking in France, she spoke several languages, he spoke one, this was his 6th Camino and her first. He was hilarious! what we would imagine a typical older English guy to be like. He proudly announced to me that he had a convict shipped to Australia in his ancestry and was a little put out when I explained that a lot of Australians did and no that didn't really make him like royalty (I actually felt a little bad about bursting his bubble!). He couldn't figure out how email worked to email his daughter and then produced a pipe and insisted he have some guinness like the German family at the next table and was rather put out that nobody had offered him any earlier.

So glad I didn't ditch the Merino!

Today I began to learn 3 valuable lessons;

You can't control everything, particularly along the Camino - things will happen in their own time so there's no point getting worked up about what you can't change

Listen to your body and respect it more, you kinda need it

Stop making excuses to everyone else because you feel less worthy/significant or pathetic - they're not judging you so don't judge yourself and just be proud of what you can/have achieved

[ClaireB]

Day 2 - Mercadioro - Hospital Alta de Cruz (16km-ish); The beauty of wine and language barriers

The woman who was sleeping at 3pm when I arrived yesterday left at 5am. I have no idea why anyone would do that! I felt slightly guilty waking her up the previous afternoon as I thought she'd had a hard day so was in need of sleep, now I know the real reason and don't feel so bad after all! Ah well, she missed breakfast which was at 7 - tea and toast which I discovered later is the standard for breakfast along the Camino. We were out of there by 8:30 and I walked into Portomarin with the Dutch woman I had spoken to at dinner. It was downhill all the way to Protomarin - relentless and brutal downhill for 5km.

By the time I got to the bridge heading into the town my legs were shaking from the effort of bracing and my knees were starting to grumble. The bridge was spectacular although I do not recommend it to anyone with any shred of difficulty with heights as it is rather long and crosses a large, deep river gorge that goes on as far as the wobbly and somewhat disorientated hikers eye can see. After crossing the bridge and climbing the steps to Portomarin I said goodbye to my Dutch friend and went to seek a cup of tea and some compeede for my irritated blisters.

Sir Isaac Newton could not have been a hiker otherwise his law of motion/gravity would be different. In hiking, while it is true that what goes up must eventually come down it is also true (and perhaps more important to remember) that what goes down must eventually, and rather painfully, go back up again. The hill from protomarin was no exception. I am not entirely sure who decided that Spanish towns must all be either at the very bottom of a hill or the very top and surrounded by other hills but it seems that somewhere along the way someone did.

My pain and injury inventory whilst a little extensive was not life threatening and my only real problem of the day was that all the difficult bits of the walk seemed to coincide with my 3-hourly tablet time. The Midordine had been working wonders for my blood pressure but I still couldn't get past the dizzy, lightheaded, vague and confused period between when one pill started to wear off and the other began to work. I fought through the difficult times by listening to music and arrived at my evening destination at 3pm dancing along and waving my poles in time to Cee Lo Green's 'it's Ok' after completely kicking the ass of the previous hill to the tune of 'F**k you' which I thought was very appropriate!

I kept seeing Zie German's (the name I fondly referred to the delightful German family by who had been staying at Mercadoiro with us the night before) all day - I would pass them, then have a break and they would pass me and so on until we ended up at Gonzar for lunch where I finally lost them - I guess I came in for the night earlier than they did and suppose they have a little bit more 'go' than me! Just after I left them I was listening to a song from 'The Sound of Music' when I rounded a corner and came across a sight that could have been straight out of the movie - how perfect it is, the magic of the Camino once again!


Strangely enough when I walked into the dormitory at the municipal Albergue at Hospital Alta de Cruz the woman who left early was asleep there already. I wonder why on earth she would start so early if she was only going the same distance as me! The Albergue was interesting, 25 beds all bunks pushed together to form doubles which was a bit odd and while they provided disposable sheets there were no blankets so I was forced to try out my sleeping bag for the first time. Everyone was crashing for a nap when they arrived so I quietly did some washing (hand-washing as it was 4.5 Euros to use the washing machine and an additional 3 for the dryer - a complete rip-off when you consider it is 5 Euros for a bed for the night as it is a municipal Albergue) and re-taped my joints. I guess after a glass of red wine or two at the bar next door I wont notice my sore feet and the cold - that seems to be the way of pilgrim life; sweat, blisters and red wine (or Vino Tinto as it is in Spanish)! But really, what more do you need?!

At the bar I met an American guy who was also staying at the Albergue and we chatted and shared some water and wine. He had his friends had walked 45km that day - INSANE!! The also planned to do the same the next day and the next until they arrived at Santiago as they had booked tickets to Rome whilst slightly inebriated without realising it would cut their time on the Camino very short. He explained that they were in the military which kinda explains it I guess. He and the bar tender had a chat in Spanglish and he attempted to teach him some more English which was entertaining from both sides.

After a while his friends arrived - The other American guy he was travelling with and a Danish girl they had met along the way who spoke excellent English. After more wine and general language-related hilarity we decided to have some dinner as we didn't exactly want to miss curfew and be locked out of the Albergue. I walked into the dining room and who should be sitting at a nearby table? Zie German's! it turns out they didn't have more 'get up and go' than me after all but had chosen to stay at the hostel attached to the bar instead of the Albergue.

Dinner was great and so was the conversation - the wine flowed and the hilarity continued, so much so that the other patrons and staff joined in. Dessert was a bit of a dilemma as there were so many yummy-sounding options including flan, tart and a cheese platter. My American friend was curious as to what kind of cheese was on the platter to which a nearby (and rather intoxicated) Spanish local replied 'Queso del Torros' (yeah, think about it...) - those of us who got it straight away found it rather amusing as those who didn't tried to figure it out; um, but, Torros, that's not quite cow though is it, how do you get cheese from - oh, right...

We made it back to the Albergue just in time for lockdown and hoping to wake up hangover free!

[ClaireB]

Since walking the Camino, sightseeing and shopping in London and Paris and coming home again I have been diagnosed with a stress crack in one of the bones in my foot - I actually did this a couple of weeks before leaving to go to Europe so I guess it's no coincidence that my Camino was filled with both pain and glory.
On another note, I haven't mentioned names as I have not asked permission to do so and will refer (by Camino tradition) to the people I meet by the country they come from - or region if that gets too difficult!

Day 3 - Hospital alta de Cruz - Palas de Rei (not actually sure how far this one was); Sin Dolor no hay Gloria (no pain no glory)

I hat my guide book, it's completely useless; the distances are all wrong, the map is crap and it doesn't tell you where things are in the villages you go through. At least it tells you what's coming next and gives a rough altitude map even if it neglects to mention that the trail actually goes up and down with a general uphill trend (or up and down with a downhill trend depending on where you are) not actually all uphill...
They say it is very hard to tell exactly how far the Camino actually is because of all the alternative routes and sightseeing points that are included in some books but not others - my thinking is that the convenient stone wayside markers are a pretty good indication and if they can say how far it is it surely can't be that hard to put it in a book - just putting it out there...

After a rather poor sleep due to an excess of red wine and the rather cold temperature I got my stuff together and vacated the Albergue at 8 as per their regulations. 3pm lady had left at 5am again successfully waking everyone up, I still don't quite understand that one! Denmark and I then headed over to the restaurant/bar from last night to have breakfast - encountering Zie German's again with the usual cheerful morning singing and cries of 'Guten Tag!'

After bidding goodbye to Zie Germans and restaurant staff from the previous night we headed off at around 8:30 - Denmark was quite glad at having a rest in and the prospect of an easy day's walk with her new slow-moving Australian friend. Most of the mornings trek was downhill which can be as much of a curse as a blessing. My lower back muscles had started hurting from carrying the pack so I changed the straps to put more of the load on my shoulders which had been doing fine. My foot and ankle (sprained 4 weeks before-hand) were killing me as was the blister under my toes I acquired in Paris which had now tripled in size despite my best efforts. Time to source some sock liners I think!

We chatted about the differences and similarities between the countryside we were walking through, the Australian countryside and the Danish countryside, what 'the bush' was and the definition of 'bushwalking'. Then we discussed the differences between the Danish and Australian education system, people we had met along the way, our reasons for walking, our reasons for choosing to be there alone and how she had fallen head over heels for America when they met 2 days ago. I guess the Camino might just be the way of Venus after all!

She got sick of my slow pace and we parted ways at the 75km marker when I stopped for some blister treatment. I think I had been slowing down, every step was agony and even talking wasn't providing too much distraction. I decided to aim for Palas de Rei, put my head down and kept going. The music helped me stick out a pace but it was tough going. By the time I hit 68km I was hobbling like an old lady and being passed by most people.

I passed Zie German's having lunch at a cafe in the middle of nowhere, they waved cheerfully and I waved back but knew that if I stopped for Lunch I would have an incredible amount of difficulty starting up again so I hobbled on using my walking sticks like my life depended on them. I had to reach Palas de Rei as it would be my best chance of finding proper medical supplies and food I could eat in my room early before I crashed completely as it had a pharmacy or two, a supermarket and hopefully internet access somewhere!

By the time I got to the Albergue on the outskirts of Palas de Rei I was walking at maybe 1km/hr and my feet felt like they were on fire and I had decided I needed to find a hotel or something where I could sleep well in my own room and hopefully have a bath. Oh boy did I want a bath, I wanted a bath more than I wanted food, water and a bed put together - I could almost have killed for a bath, well maybe not quite that but I really did want one! Unfortunately there were no rooms left at the hotel with baths so I settled for my own room with a shower where I sat on the floor and let the warm water run across my abused feet for about half an hour - in Australia you get in a lot of trouble for something like that but I don't think Spain have ever heard of water restrictions

I was over-tired and possibly in a little bit of shock from all the pain and I couldn't get warm. I had acquired 4 new blisters and the original one was threatening to take over my foot. By the time I get back to Paris I may not be able to walk, do any sightseeing or (more importantly) any shopping! The problem is that anything I put on them gets pushed up my foot while I walk and ends up scrunched around the base of my toes so the compeede actually gave me a blister instead of helping it heal - go figure! I think the problem may be that the insoles I bought in Leon were too thick so there isn't enough room in my boots for my toes to be comfortable - well it was that or walk on the hard inside of my shoes with no insoles at all which would cause other problems so a loose-loose situation really.

I haven't seen Zie German's again, I guess they kept going for real this time.
An early night for me now - oh, I forgot to take any photos today, ah well, there are plenty of other days

[zzotte]

ClaireB, it maybe time to dump the xtras in the backpack? dump the shoes and opt for tennis shoes? Sandals? and definitely tape does toes. I know all about "no guts no glory", "no pain no gain", "this one for the team" bla bla bla it’s all fine and dandy if I had bear is chasing my rear.

Take care
Zo

[ClaireB]

Day 4 - Palas de Rei - Melide - Every step forward is a step closer

Writing in my journal in the morning is a new thing for me but as I am in my own room for the first time I'm not disturbing anyone by doing so and am not about to be kicked out early.
I'm not sure how far I will get today but I am aiming for at least Melide. The crappy map/book says the way is mostly downhill but we know how it lies so I can expect some hills thrown in along the way - the first hill of the day is always the hardest and as most of the villages and towns are at the bottom of hills I am pretty sure I can expect on right away. I originally had 2 guide books but I left the heavier one in Paris. Unfortunately the heavier one is generally acknowledged by those in the know to be one of the better books on the market. I wonder if the author would consider making an iPhone app of his guide because that would be completely awesome. I haven't mentioned it before but I love my iPhone - it is the perfect travel tool. Before I left home I downloaded a Spanish phrasebook, a weather app for Galicia, Spanish guidebooks and similar things for both Paris and London including colour maps to the Parisian underground and London tube in addition to all the music I had on it already and the audiobooks I added at the last minute. The best thing about all this is; no matter how much I put on it it stays the same weight and size!

I think I prefer staying at the smaller places, you meet more people. That being said the bigger ones are more likely to have internet, pharmacies and supermarkets and maybe even a bath. Yes, I am still obsessed with the idea of having a bath. So I am aiming for 10-15km today, If it's 10km I will be staying at a smaller place, if it's 15 I will make it to Melide which is the next large town. Either way I will pass my half-way mark today.

I slept pretty well last night, finally, in my own room but had reflux all night which is odd - could be all the red wine I've been having lately. So now my oesophagus is inflamed and I can hardly eat or drink anything - no breakfast for me I think. I can't believe how much they expect us to eat along here! The Pilgrim menu consists of 2 huge meals plus dessert and I am very aware of offending people by not finishing the plates off but it is an impossible task for me! Last night I ordered croquettes. As I was expecting just them I stopped my tradition of not eating bread as well but when I had finished I was also given grilled chicken and chips and offered dessert - I could hardly send back the chicken after it had been cooked for me and felt ill afterwards from all the food.

I found some sock liners yesterday so will try them but I have a feeling that my feet are beyond help. I keep telling myself that it doesn't matter how far I get each day, it is my Camino, I will get there eventually. I heard a wonderful saying yesterday: 'Santiago will always be there'. That really sums up my Camino; no matter how long it takes I will get to Santiago. But I would really like some internet access tonight...

Early on I met a Belgian lady and ended up walking most of the day with her. We chatted about all sorts of things and passed some beautiful scenery. I just can't believe how spectacular it is here. I had heard that the walk from Sarria to Santiago is the least-nice part of the Camino de Frances and if this is true I would like to see the rest to compare! After a while my friend and I parted ways - she had feet problems too and had to take the hills slowly. I had to tackle them as if my life depended on it so put my head down and strode off. I seem to only have one pace - full steam ahead! Even if my full steam differs in speed. I give it all or nothing, I am not the kind of hiker who can do things by halves and conserve my energy for later. When I have it I have it and I will use it and keep going for as long as I have to. The concept of conserving energy is quite strange to me, if you have it, why not use it? I guess that comes from so many years of not having much of it but surely the idea is to get where you're going? Besides, I am slow enough as it is without consciously slowing down. My walking slows during the course of the day to an old-lady shuffle as my feet get more and more sore.

I planned to stop for a break along the way but everything was closed. My body was having trouble as I still had not eaten so I raided my supplies of mini choc chip cookies and orange flavoured tang - I couldn't justify the tub of powerade. After a short break I hobbled on to Melide and my half-way mark. I got (understandably) very happy when I saw that 55km sign and it buoyed me up and carried me along dancing to the Jackson's 'blame it on the boogie' - yes I was acting out my traditional dance moves to 'sunshine', 'moonlight', 'good times' and 'boogie' with hiking poles in my hands. It is quite fortunate nobody was trying to pass me at the time as they probably would have received a pole in the face by way of a greeting instead of the more traditional 'Buen Camino'
Once you pass the 55km sign you think you're nearly in Melide and then you hit the industrial zone which seems to go on for miles. Then you come across a charming little town beginning with an F that has a beautiful old stone bridge with picturesque views and charming stone houses - it really is one of the most stunning of the tiny villages you go through in the last section of the Camino.

I struggled into Melide at lunch time in slightly better shape than the day before and wandered around looking for a place to stay. I found my Belgian friend from the morning and we were headed in the direction of the Albergue when we came across a Canadian guy who was staying in a hotel. Naturally my first question was 'do the rooms have baths?' - Yes!! My next question was 'does it have internet access?' - Yes!! Perfect! So I said Buen Camino to Belgium and headed to the hotel guided by Canada.

I think you can guess what I did first! Well, sort of. Actually I called my mother. As we chatted I began de-sports taping and taking off my blister dressings. The conversation went something like this 'Yeah, passed the halfway mark today, I'm a bit sore but still going, oh, the dressing on my big blister smells funny, oh dear' as I pulled it off and a large blob of pus and skin came with it...
Salt bath! Insisted Doctor Mum, so I hobbled to the supermarket for a tub of salt and soaked my feet for a long time. Then I had a very hot bath (listening to one of my audio books) which was complete bliss, soaked my blister some more in salty water, re-did my sports tape (with my own version of Rob Zombie's 'more human than human' in my head; 'more sports tape than human') and then went on the internet.



I think it might be Albergues for me from now on though, 30 Euros per night will really add up (even if I do have a bath!).

Anyone reading this journal would be well within the realms of reason to think: This girl is completely insane! Walking 115km with a sprained ankle, stress crack in her foot, dodgy knees, dodgy hips, infected blisters, blood pressure that randomly decides to take a holiday and an over-enthusisatic heart that tries to make up for blood pressure's laziness - what was she thinking? And to that I would reply, well, yes, that would be the simple explanation. The more complex one of course would take years of psychotherapy to determine so for now I am perfectly happy being viewed as insane although I prefer myself to think of it as being stubborn, determined, maybe slightly ridiculous but above all a dislike of being dictated to about what my body and I can and can't do. Oh yeah, and maybe a little crazy

[ClaireB]

ClaireB, it maybe time to dump the xtras in the backpack? dump the shoes and opt for tennis shoes? Sandals? and definitely tape does toes. I know all about "no guts no glory", "no pain no gain", "this one for the team" bla bla bla it’s all fine and dandy if I had bear is chasing my rear.

Take care
Zo

Thanks for the concern Zo but I'm writing reflectively! I have been home for a week now so am resting up - I had no extras in my pack, it weighed 9kg with water and I wasn't about to dump my shoes - I have very flat feet so needed the orthotics. I could have dumped the innersoles and got thinner ones but didn't. I loved my sandals and socks and would have been happy to wear them instead but they don't provide enough arch support so my knees would have been unhappy
And I didn't really view it as no pain no glory, that was me laughing at myself later on
but you expect some kind of pain walking that far anyway!! next time I will be better prepared but I thoroughly enjoyed it anyway

[zzotte]

I know how you must had felt I have almost a flat feet (very little arch) and have to use orthotics and overpronate so my knees hurts and all that just on a everyday walk, my backpack? the best I can do is 8kg without food or water (I'm planning for the fall 2012) so I have a long ways to go before I'm ready but I would do it tomorrow if I had the time. I read in all the forums all say the same things "the camino is a mix between hurting a lot and not so much" and... you did it

Zo

[joe]

Claire, well done for walking the Camino! It's great to read your blog posts and I can relate to a lot of it, for the last 3 weeks of my walk I literally limped out of the albergue and out of the town, but after an hour or so my body and mind gets used to the pain and I start to walk a little more normally! I have no one to blame but myself, I walked around 130km in 3 days (over 40km per day), so the tendons in my feet were damaged... which I found to be a lot more painful than the blisters I encountered in the first couple of weeks, and I thought they were bad! When I read that you were walking like an old lady at 1km/hr I couldn't help but laugh because I also had times like that.

I've been home for a week now and I am still in the process of processing! I started writing my journal for the first couple of weeks, but then I gradually stopped writing my journal all together. I have a pretty good memory of what I felt, saw, spoke, and who I met, so along with my pictures I will carry on writing from where I stopped and will shortly create a blog.

[ClaireB]

Ouch - tendonitis!! No wonder you were in pain
I think there's a reason there are so many t-shirts, magnets, mugs and hats etc with 'no pain no glory' or 'no pain no Camino' written on them!

Let me know when you've done your blog Joe, I'd love to read it. Everyone's experience is different and it's great to hear other people's. I found I had nothing more to write about after I got to Finisterre - my pen ran out and then when I finally got a new one I had no desire to write any more but I wrote every day while I was walking - that being said I don't know if I could keep up the writing for a month!

[ClaireB]

This was my hardest day on the Camino emotionally but I got through it and out to the next day and the day after and the day after that - no matter how bad things look there is always tomorrow, and tomorrow is full of possibility if you let it be.

Day 5 - my day off in Melide; It's not all sunshine and roses

My body has spoken and today we go nowhere! My infected blister is very sore, my back muscles want nothing to do with my pack, my foot hurts, my ankle is whinging, the rest of my muscles are rather unhappy and I am exhausted. I guess I need to restock my adrenaline and it does mean I get to go back to sleep and then spend the day checking out Melide, which apparently has a museum that traces the history of the area and its occupants back to the time when people lived in holes in the ground with a big stone slab as a roof so that could be interesting! There is also apparently a church with some amazing fresco's AND I can wander back down the hill to the really cute village I didn't take any photos of yesterday. Then I can re-stock my compeede and painkiller supply and maybe even find some deep heat - but for now, I nap and later, some sightseeing!

The museum in Melide is possibly one of the best I have ever been to. It is small and understated but has a fantastic collection grouped in displays from each era but also separated into trades typical of the area (including shoe making, a smith's or armourer's display including bellows and ancient sewing machines etc). Then also clothing, jewellery and watches from Roman times including a large collection of pocket watches (some exquisitely painted), coins from many eras, religious artefacts and even a bag-pipe display (as the bag-pipe is a traditional Galician instrument). They also have a wall dedicated to carved wooden murals including the sketches for some - I have never seen so many in one place or so many that were so detailed yet looked so simple at the same time. I would recommend a visit to the museum for anyone passing through Melide who would find that type of thing interesting.

For lunch I went to Chaplin's - a Charlie Chaplin themed cafe on the corner of the main street and watched the Pilgrims walk past. I am so hungry today, I guess it comes from not being able to eat much for a couple of days but so far I have had the usual tea and toast for breakfast, followed by 2 muesli bars, 2 packets of mini choc-chip cookies and then for lunch Spanish omelette with croquettes, salad and calamares (calamari). It's as if the hunger I haven't had has finally caught up with me. I had expected the complete opposite; to be ravenously hungry on the days I was walking because of all the energy I was burning. Oh well, my body makes no sense but we had already established that!

After lunch and a foot soak I headed down the hill to Furelos - my foot felt the best it had in days due to a combination of salt soaking and a less fancy dressing than the compeede (gauze and tape). Furleos was beautiful and the sun was out so I took quite a few photos.

On the way back I met 2 german girls who had just finished school and were walking even slower than me - see, it is possible! Turns out I'm not the slowest person on the Camino after all! I think I should pass them tomorrow if all is ok for me to get going again.

I have no idea why I expected Compeede to be better than the blister dressings we have at home - maybe they stick a little better but I'm not convinced. I guess the problem with blisters is that they rarely occur in places that dressings can stick to easily so really, what's the point in getting expensive dressings if they're only going to come off and you need to change them every day anyway? Ah well, hopefully this day off has given my body what it needs and I can get going to Arzua tomorrow.

Or not. We've had a bit of a melt-down this evening. I am so hungry but can't eat anything, nothing will go/stay down. Oh my poor body, why don't I understand what you need? I suppose this is all due to the reflux I had the other night and now my stomach etc is inflamed. I thought this experience would help me understand you, the way you work and then we could work better together and you could be a little more cooperative when we can both see what we are capable of together. I just don't understand.

And how do you explain to a Spanish chef with limited English that I actually do want to eat, that the food is very good but I just can't and I don't know why exactly. I hope he didn't get offended by my not eating anything because he was very nice and offered to cook me something else - the only problem is, something else would have ended up the same! Urgh, can we just finish this now and go back to Paris? Failure is not an option. I want to talk to my mum but it's 4am at home and I don't think she'd appreciate being woken up even if she would insist it's ok. Maybe I do understand my body. Maybe I already know what I'm capable of, maybe that is what I was brought here to find.

I dunno, I guess I half hoped that the magic of the Camino would make me better by then end. It's sure done a lot of other magical mysterious things so why not this?! If I just kept walking I was sure it would all be ok by Santiago. I expected pain, I expected difficulty but I expected that at the beginning, not half way through! I think I had some romantic notion that with every step closer to Santiago I would feel my world, my life, me getting lighter as I left all the crap behind and set down my burdens for the universe to dispose of for me. The truth is, I am really not that emotionally needy but some occasional reassurance would be very nice! Just so I know I am going the right way and it's not always going to be like this! No, I didn't expect a miracle, I didn't expect to be magically cured of anything and everything and never have trouble again in my life but I sure did expect something! It's like getting a tattoo; people ask all the time 'did it hurt' well, the answer is obviously yes (well duh, you're having an ink-filled needle repeatedly stabbed into your skin - did you expect it to tickle?) but that's not the point, the point is that there is something more important than the pain, that by the time the pain stops and it heals you have something much more, something marked on your skin forever to remind you of something significant (well that's what mine are for, I am well aware there are a lot of tattoos out there with significantly less significance!) - that's what an experience like this is like. No matter what happens, no matter how much pain you go through, no matter how hard it is, by the end you have something etched into your soul till your dying day to remind you of what you have achieved. I guess I hoped it would also be more tangible and less symbolic - what if I get to the end and it's all still the same?

It's just not fair! I push myself, I strive for things that other people in my situation would not believe they can achieve but I know I can but why is it always so hard? What if I find nothing? I wanted things to change, I wanted my life to change, I wanted me to change - to at least gain some insight into how to manage things when they get tough. Maybe I'm supposed to realise that I don't have to change. That this is how it, how I am supposed to be, how my life is supposed to be. I don't think I can accept that! I can't admit defeat, that's why I'm here and that is why I am going to keep going. But hang on, if this is it then do I have to keep going? Well, yes. Why? Because I have to, I owe it to myself to keep going and if I must, I will walk on in despair.

It was supposed to be monumental - something many people (including myself a few years ago) would not expect me to achieve. Monumental, symbolic, magical, romantic, fairy-tale-like (ok I might be getting a little carried away but I am upset and feel perfectly entitled). I wasn't supposed to find something in the cathedral at the end, no inner peace from God for me, it was supposed to come to me along the way. But if this is what I was supposed to find, I don't want it. Take it back and I can continue dreaming, wishing, hoping and threatening for my life to be better. But I know I couldn't go on the way I was, even being here is an amazing achievement and I don't want to go back to it being like it was before. Can I do it now, knowing this? Knowing that it will always be harder for me, that there is no quick-fix; that my life is going to suck forever and I will never be able to achieve my dreams? And if this is really what it is supposed to be like - can I cope with study for another 4 years? Or do I find a job I can do a settle for being less than I know I can be, less than I dream to be. I guess bringing up kids believing they can do anything is a bit cruel. Much better to grow up with no dreams and be surprised along the way (wow I'm depressing right now).

But what will I do with this new knowledge? That is really the question. Will I succumb and let it bring me down? Let it run my life? Ruin my life? Be depressed? Be a 'sick person'? Make the world feel sorry for me or resent and despise me for my limited conversation and incessant complaining because that is all I am, all I have and all I talk about? Do I finally pick up the white flag, fall to my knees and give myself up to God? Give myself over to his protection, love and comfort because I can't do it for myself any more?
It's not exactly in my nature but I suppose I could if it were necessary

I don't know what to do

Just walk...

It's ok, it gets better!

[ClaireB]

Day 6 - Melide - Palas de Rei - what do you call a group of cyclists on the Camino

I'm up for walking today, I wonder where I will get to! Arzua looks like a nice goal and apparently the weather is going to turn nasty so as far as I can get will be good, wherever that is! I wonder if Zie German's have finished yet. I wonder if Denmark caught up with America. I wonder if antisocial 3pm-5am lady is still waking people up early. Lots of questions!

Today's walk started in rain that couldn't quite figure out if it was committed enough to actually be a real bother so I decided to put my pack cover on just incase and otherwise ignore it. 10 minutes in I met a couple of older ladies from Holland and we chatted for a bit but for the first time so far, they were too slow for me! A little later on at a very picturesque spot I met a very sweet young guy from down south in America on his independence/gap year trip. He was very free spirited, cheerful, chatty and carefree and reminded me a lot of my brother. We kept each other company for about half of the walk to to Arzua as he had a bit of tendonitis in his achilles so was going a little slower than his normal 35+km per day. Eventually, even with his tendonitis, we parted ways and he went on ahead.

Today has been the day of the tour group - in particular, the cycling tour group. First up, however, was a group of Spaniards on foot all decked out in matching bright yellow t-shirts, rudely taking up the entire path and chatting at an excessive volume (as they are wont to do in Spain). We swapped the lead a few times and I thought I had lost them for good when they stopped at a cafe for lunch and I decided to keep going. 50m down the road from the cafe I was passed by a tornado of bright yellow on wheels as a wall of nearly 30 cyclists whizzed by on the downhill trending path. A lot of them called out the customary 'Hola' or 'Buen Camino' as they passed and by the time the last one went by my neck was sore from turning to see if there were more coming! Shortly afterwards two smaller groups passed me and then another large group of around 20, this time wearing blue shirts. Really guys, the tour isn't for a month or so and you're in the wrong country for it anyway! It sparks the question - what do you call a group of cyclists on the Camino? And the answer really is debatable (although many would say 'a huge pain in the a**e'). In some places there is no room for them and they really shouldn't be on it, particularly seeing as though they often have their own route going via more major roads that doesn't include where those of us on foot are walking. It really is rather irritating to find yourself forced into a ditch or prickly bush or over a wall (particularly either first thing in the morning or when it is raining) just because some guy has decided he wants his Camino to be more authentic so has taken his bicycle on the bits that weren't made for bikes and suddenly discovered there isn't enough room for the two of you or he can't control his hybrid road/mountain bike properly on the tough downhill patches where the trail has eroded. Don't get me wrong, some of them are great - lovely, cheerful, great company and (the best bit) they go heaps further in one day than those of us on foot so if they snore like a chainsaw the odds of encountering them again along the way are very low! Actually that's not so good if they're kinda cute and you want to get a second look

A little later on I stopped to change my dressings and have a break. The gauze and tape is working much better than the compede. This may be because the compede sticks to the skin in order to heal properly and protect blisters but it doesn't work well in some places or when a blister gets to be a certain size as all it succeeds in doing after that is pulling the skin as you walk causing more friction and considerable blister enlargement.
As I was stopped the walking group in yellow passed me again. There were a few decent sized hills today even though my map shows a general downhill trend - but we have already established that my map is crap!

3km out of Arzua I sat at a cafe on a hill and ate lunch - a spanish omlette which I shared with my new friend (isn't he cute!)
As I ate (and he hopped around looking cute) a group of Japanese walkers passed by all clothed from toe to wrist and neck then topped off with ridiculously large brimmed hats waving to everyone they passed. They all looked like they were having a fantastic time. After a while I was joined by a German girl and 2 girls from Puerto Rico who were walking with a band that was playing in the plaza at Arua that evening. I heard that there was a large hill between there and Arzua but nothing much of interest in Arzua itself (apart from the band). I decided to push on anyway as I hadn't arranged accommodation and did not want to miss out!

The German girl was right, there was a bit of a hill between the cafe and Arzua but it was manageable and I paused at the top for a photo op (to disguise the fact that I was a little out of breath) - here are Ding and I just outside Arzua and next to what appears to be a corn field.
I found a hostel that seems to be ok - it says in the guide book that it has 2 rooms but the rooms are really one room separated by a panel that doesn't go up to the ceiling. Still, it has a little garden with clothes line, a laundry, hot showers with separate bathrooms for men and women and the showers are in stalls so you can hang your clothes up and get changed without having to do it in the communal bathroom area.

The afternoon was lovely and sunny so I did my washing, tended to my feet, re-did my sports tape and wrote in my journal while I was chatted to by a young, bald German guy who (for some strange reason) was doing his exercises in the garden. Why someone would want to do sit-up's, push-ups and jump around after having walked 30+km I have no idea. He cheerfully told me his friends now called him supercaminoman and he was devising a comic about it. Stranger things have happened and he was amusing company. I haven't met anyone so far who wasn't really nice (or if they weren't they kept to themselves and I was none the wiser).

After all that I headed in to town in search of food, entertainment and a bank that is linked to my bank at home that was supposed to be there and would mean no ridiculous withdrawal and exchange fees. I had no idea where the plaza was or what time the band was playing but the town is not very big so I was confident I would find it and I did - but not the bank.

I set myself up for a bit of people watching and quickly struck up a conversation with a delightful Italian while we were trying to figure out the significance of a statue of two small children each hugging a calf. We chatted for a while, had dinner in the plaza and then waited for the band to start. we knew we were in the right place as their mic's and things were set up but they weren't playing anything! The waiter told us they would start at 8. 8 came but the band didn't. The 8:30 came, 8:45 and still no band.

By that stage it was rather cold so we decided to get up and move around a bit and wait a little longer before giving up completely. Then at the other end of the plaza I saw the Puerto Rican girls from the cafe on the hill. They explain that the band was supposed to start at 8 but they are right next to the church and mass started at 8 so they had to wait for it to finish. They had been told that mass would finish at 8:30 but then told later that the priest was old and liked to talk a lot so it would probably be 9. Ah well, that's spain time for you!

My feet are looking worse by the day but hey, they're still there so that's got to mean something, right?!

[freedom13]

I too found cyclists a bit of a pain Claire, I wouldn't mind if they cycled at a reasonable slow pace but they absolutely bomb along as if the devil himself is chasing them lol
I have to admit I did have a bit of a giggle once as 3 cyclists bombed past me at lightning speed on a narrow downhill path only for them to run out of path and land head-over-heels on one another in a little stream, the expletives that followed in Italian [ I think] were not for a pious pilgrims ears like myself lol. The only thing that was really hurt that day were the egos of the refugees of the Tour de France...
Loving your blog by the way ...

[Precious1]

You are a real inspiration, Claire!!!

[zzotte]

Do you know Claire that I read all the forums, and every one talks about the weight they carry, the bad boots, the food or the lack of it, the pain, the aches, the infectious blisters, and the hills, the flats, the cold the heat and all the terrible things and joys and I could go on and on, some even says that they are still looking after 30 some odd days for that "one thing" and do you want to know something, the inner strength that takes to do it allover again....every morning day after day that Claire is the GIFT for me Claire is its my daily inspiration.

Zo

[ClaireB]

Do you know Claire that I read all the forums, and every one talks about the weight they carry, the bad boots, the food or the lack of it, the pain, the aches, the infectious blisters, and the hills, the flats, the cold the heat and all the terrible things and joys and I could go on and on, some even says that they are still looking after 30 some odd days for that "one thing" and do you want to know something, the inner strength that takes to do it allover again....every morning day after day that Claire is the GIFT for me Claire is its my daily inspiration.

Zo

You're so right Zo!

[ClaireB]

Day 7 - Arzua - Arca/Pedroso - The rain in Spain actually doesn't stay mainly in the plain - yes, Henry Higgins lied!

So I have decided I am staying in a hotel again tonight - more expensive but I do have my reasons! Let me explain; I like sleep, I really appreciate it, actually I could go so far as to say that I LOVE SLEEP! My body also loves sleep and sleep has been a big issue throughout my illness. So you see, if I was able to lounge around on a beach all day after partying heaps and staying in a poorly ventilated dormitory with 34 others including some that are intent on bursting ear drums and conducting brain surgery with their snoring it would be fine. I honestly don't mind staying in a dorm - I've done it before and I will do it again, just not tonight...
I have to respect what my body needs if I am going to make it to Santiago and what my body needs (it has told me in no uncertain terms) is sleep. I really have been pushing it and my body has been showing the effects so I need to be nice to it when I can.

So yes, last night. I got some sleep in between being freezing cold and then boiling hot once the accumulated breathing and body heat steamed up the room, then I kept needing to move (moving while trying to sleep is my problem, not snoring and I feel really bad that I might be keeping people awake until a ripper snore (or fart) is let off and then I don't feel so bad after all), then there were the snorers and the fact that wherever you were in the room the door woke you up when it opened as the light outside was bright as day and the hinges sounded like they were being tortured.

I set out in the rain at 9am. And this time it was real rain, the rain had decided to be completely committed to its cause and required full wet weather protection as it was relentless in its determination. I met The Puerto Rican ladies from the night before outside their Albergue (which was right next door to mine) and one joined me as planned, the other had an injury so was having a day off. It didn't take long to get out of Arzua and into the countryside and the scenery was beautiful if slightly damp. One thing I love about Spain is the determination, ingenuity and make-do attitude; so what if it's raining and my tractor doesn't have a roof - I have an umbrella.
My Puerto Rican friend was a science teacher who wanted to become a priest and we had lengthy discussions about how different life in Puerto Rico was to Spain and even Australia, particularly her neighbourhood where many children do not finish school and end up working as drug traffickers etc. It is not a life I could begin to imagine coming from a family where it is a given that you finish school and then university and an area where the majority of kids I went to school with finished school or if they dropped out, ended up in an apprenticeship to a trade or working in the family business so they at least had some future employment to look forward to. I know I have had a privileged upbringing (though not as much as some) and I am not naive enough to think that the whole world of even most of the world is like the one I live in but it is rare to hear these stories first hand if you do not go out and seek them (particularly coming from Australia which is so large and so removed geographically from most of the western world). That is one of the magical things about the Camino, it calls people from all over the world, from many different backgrounds and dumps them together unceremoniously on a path in the middle of the Spanish countryside - you never know who or what you will find.

We clocked up 19km, quite a decent effort I thought, particularly considering the weather, but the band were playing that night in Arca so she had a deadline. I had nowhere better to be so tagged along thinking I could stop earlier if I needed to and found somewhere I liked the look of. I didn't. We crossed paths a few times with a group of 3 (one man and two women) with their dogs - very cute and well behaved (the dogs that is), I have no idea what breed they were but they were mid-sized and looked a bit like black shelties only slightly larger. We also saw my Southern American friend a few times and strolled (damply) into Arca with him.

I don't know if every day is getting harder or it just feels like that but today was hard - probably because I was starting on very little sleep! I also might be coming down with a sinus infection - oh what fun! That and my body is still a bit of a mess what with intermittent tachycardia, the pain in my feet and who knows what going on with my blood pressure, oh and today my knees decided they had been far too well behaved and wanted some attention too. And I had been really impressed with them up until now, actually I still am, they could be a lot worse. I swear also that my pack is getting heavier - I know for a fact that that is impossible as it is getting smaller so I am either getting better at packing it or am leaving things behind on my way. Still, I have walked further today than any other day so far and according to the wayside markers (but not my book) there is only 18.5km left till Santiago. the question is; do I do it all in one day so i can stop and rest properly sooner or do I do it over 2 easier days? Nobody can answer that for me and I guess I will just find out tomorrow.

I am not sure about going on to Finisterre now - part of me thinks I have put my body through enough for one year, the rest thinks it would be wonderful to get there under my own steam. But if the book is to be believed (the jury is still out on that one) there is another 91km or so to Finisterre from Santiago and, to be honest, I really don't think I can be assed, although it's not a definite no.

After promising myself some TLC we walked into the first hotel we could find and my friend translated for me - 40 Euros for a room, yeah that's so not going to happen...
How about I give it to you for 30? Well that I can work with! I obviously looked rather pitiful or they were desperate to fill rooms or something but either way I got my room. Apparently I would love it, it was really nice. To be honest I can't actually tell what makes it 10 Euros more than other rooms; it is smaller, there are no extra blankets and it has a shower not a bath. So what makes a room 10 Euros more along the Camino? The answer is, apparently, climate control. I would much prefer a bath! Actually, I think when I retire I will set up a hostel along the Camino with single room options or smaller dorm rooms (maybe 8 beds) and separate dorms for snorers and early leavers. Also baths, including a jacuzzi in each shared bathroom or just a really warm pool, a table for unpacking your pack for each bed, hooks to hang up hiking poles, bags of ice available at reception, an in-house pharmacy and nurse on call, clothes washing facilities that don't cost as much as the room, a restaurant that opens at 5:30pm, massage chairs in the communal room and plenty of water and wine for everyone. I like that plan, it's a good plan.

The dog people are also staying in the hotel and I think the dogs are in the basement. I can hear them howling up the stairwell which is acting like a sound conductor and amplifier and is right next to my room. I can hear them as if they were next door. Oh, the dog people are actually next door and having a very good time indeed - how do they have the energy for that after walking all day? Um, think I might go for a walk or something, away from here - conveniently I know of a Puerto Rican band that is playing nearby.

[ClaireB]

Camino day 8; Arca - Santiago (part 1) - Lightning flashes

What a day!

I slept in this morning so didn't start walking until nearly 10am. I knew I would be starting out alone today so I wasn't holding anyone up with my late start. Last night we had a goodbye of sorts. The Puerto Rican's wanted to be at Santiago for midday pilgrim mass as they would only have a few hours in Santiago before heading back by train to Lugo where they had left the bulk of their luggage. Our delightful Italian friend was planning to only go as far as Monte de Gozo so he could have a leisurely walk into Santiago the next day and arrive fresh and relaxed. Our free-spirited southern lad was also headed to Santiago but would only be there one night before heading on to Finisterre. We made no solid plans to meet up because the way is unpredictable and nobody knew when they would get to Santiago. The only thing we did know was that the band was playing in a plaza somewhere in Santiago at some time - maybe 3pm, maybe 4, maybe 5 or 6, they didn't know. But the sadness of parting was forgotten in the joy and companionship of the evening.

Last night I followed the sound of music down the main street until I found the band - and everyone else. We chatted, some danced and clowned around, took photos and listened to the music tapping our toes to the joyful beat. Afterwards the two Puerto rican girls, Italian guy and I headed to the cafe for some amazing, rich Spanish hot chocolate that was so thick it had to be eaten with a spoon. I decided I would have to take some home with me if I could find it in Santiago. After many words and hugs we parted ways for sleep and another day or more of walking, not knowing if we would meet again but knowing we shared something very special that would live on in our hearts long after the thrill of travel had passed.

There was a light rain in the morning but once I left the streets of Arca behind and headed into the forest the rain did not touch me through the trees. It was beautiful - glorious ivy-covered Oak trees interspersed with Eucalyptus and ferns, so many shades of green there are not enough words to describe. The walk today would be shorter than yesterday according to the wayside markers - only 18.5km to Santiago, I was sure I could make it. I was going along at a good pace, buoyed up by my music and the feeling that today, maybe, I would finish, I would achieve what I came here to achieve. I would complete my Camino. I was listening to 'China' by Sparkadia and singing along to the chorus when suddenly it happened. It was as if I had hit an invisible wall or been struck by lightning and could not move. Then a flood of emotion took over, a feeling of love, protection and reassurance coursed through me from all around and I had the overwhelming feeling that everything was going to be ok. EVERYTHING! That I don't have to worry anymore. I have no idea where it came from and after what could have been a moment or 10 minutes it ebbed away leaving me completely stunned. Overwhelmed I cried as at buoyed my spirit. It was like nothing I have ever experienced before. There were no words to hear, nothing to see and no-one took responsibility for it but that is not important. It was there, it happened, that is what is important.

I don't know specifically what it means; whether I will get well completely and forever, whether I will be accepted into and complete a medical degree, whether it meant I will finish the Camino, finish my holiday, whether I will always be happy and live to be old and wrinkly with the person I choose to spend the rest of my life with by my side, whether I will meet that person - who knows! But that is also unimportant because I know that whatever happens I will be OK.
Obviously this experience lead me to reflect a bit. I was on the home straight of a journey that has been several months in the making. A journey that looked several times like it would not happen. A journey that has taught me new respect for my body. We (my body and I) don't need to go any further to prove anything to anyone. We have proved to ourselves that we could do it, that we can do anything we set our mind and heart to and that is enough. We have learned the most important thing of all from this journey - patience with ourselves and love for ourself. Santiago will always be there and everything will be ok.

About 100m from my place of epiphany the Camino brought me back to the world (just to remind me I was still here and not to get too carried away) when I met an elderly Spanish man walking along the way in the middle of nowhere. He was going very slowly and it was clear he would take a long time to reach anywhere. He was carrying an umbrella. I said the usual 'Hola' and 'Buenos Dias' and he settled in for a chat in Spanish. He did not let the fact that I understood very little of what he was saying deter him and repeated himself over again and used hand gestures until he thought I had grasped the idea. I believe the conversation went something like this; you are going to Santiago? It is not so far now, only 16km. Where did you start? Oh Sarria, that is a long way - you are very fit/fat/happy/beautiful????? (yeah that bit got a bit confused because he kept saying different things - it could possibly have been all those) To get to Santiago from here there is one small hill and then one very big one.

Spain makes language barriers and cultural differences highly amusing

[Precious1]

"Santiago will always be there and everything will be ok."
Your epiphany is making me cry..... as my spirit is buoyed!!!

[amgirl5]

I totally feel ya. I walked from Burgos to Santiago with more or less 2 sprained ankles because I had the complex that I had to conquer it, whatever that means. Happily, I can still walk, and I did the Camino 2x after that. (The stress-crack sounds awful though, yikes!) I just found your posts and am enjoying your blog. I'm glad to see you made it all the way to Santiago...sometimes you just have to do these things. All the best, Liz

[amgirl5]

"It's just not fair! I push myself, I strive for things that other people in my situation would not believe they can achieve but I know I can but why is it always so hard? What if I find nothing? I wanted things to change, I wanted my life to change, I wanted me to change - to at least gain some insight into how to manage things when they get tough. Maybe I'm supposed to realise that I don't have to change. That this is how it, how I am supposed to be, how my life is supposed to be. I don't think I can accept that! I can't admit defeat, that's why I'm here and that is why I am going to keep going. But hang on, if this is it then do I have to keep going? Well, yes. Why? Because I have to, I owe it to myself to keep going and if I must, I will walk on in despair."

Wow. This is pretty powerful. I think many of us feel something similar (often midway) through the Camino. It sounds like you had this more intensely and in a much shorter span of time.

[ClaireB]

Camino day 8 - Part 2; the end of the beginning

And on I walked. The numbers on the wayside markers went down and down and the view was still awe inspiring at times. I passed fields of wildflowers and groves of silver birch, oak, pine and eucalyptus. The way went through a tunnel of green that went on for maybe 100m. Perhaps the trail was carved by hand out of the ground, or maybe the feet of thousands of pilgrim wore away at the earth over time and this is the result. Who knows, but I like to think it is the latter.
After that I passed some dead shoes on a waymarker, they had been someone's faithful companions for hundreds of kilometres and had walked as many steps as they could. I really wanted to take a photo of the 13km marker (I can't remember why) but at around 13.5km the markers stop saying how far there is to go just as you get to the freeway near Lavacolla. I later discovered that this is because the way was changed to go around the airport - so my book was right all along, not 4km or so out as I had thought. This meant that my already tough walk of 18.5km was going to be 22.5 (or whatever) but the thought didn't really hit home, I was on a roll and wouldn't be stopping.

My feet and legs ached and I cried intermittently, overcome by the magnitude of what I was achieving and the significance of the day. And the finally, there was Santiago in the distance with only Monte de Gozo in the way. Not a particularly inspiring first impression but it was the end of the road and that was enough.

The end went on forever, twisting and turning. First Santiago was to the left, then in front, then to the right, then to the front, then - ah you get the idea. Finally I got to the bottom of Monte de Gozo and the end was in sight - well, the freeway sign marking the start of Santiago was in sight. Now all I had to do was get to the cathedral.

At the other end of the freeway overpass I met up with a couple of girls I had met at Arzua (one hot American mama and one sexy Spanish senorita) walking with a (gorgeous german) girl I had met earlier in the day. I joined them and we walked (or rather hobbled) through the streets of Santiago following the Camino as it twisted and turned on its way to the cathedral. It seemed to take forever and we were all sore and going slowly - there was no need to hurry, we were in Santiago, we would make it to the end.

And then, finally, we were there! The cathedral was huge with a magnificent carved stone facade towering above the plaza where the tents of the protesters were set up on the stone ground. Inside we were surrounded by stone pillars and tourists, some were pilgrims, some not. We dumped our packs in an alcove and sat, absorbing the atmosphere and reflecting on our journey's and what had brought us to the Camino. Hiking boots were swapped for comfortable sandals and we sat in companionable silence for quite a while. We decided to go and rest in our respective hotels and meet up again for dinner, we thought the chances of finding the band were very slim as there were many plazas in Santiago and we had no idea what time to look. So we collected our things and walked outside to find - the band!

We greeted them for the last time and listened for a while - there were plenty of hugs and photos. My walking companion and her injured friend showed up after a little while - apparently the delightful Italian and Southern American lad had finished today as well and had only just passed through the plaza while we were in the Cathedral. After saying goodbye for the final time the girls and I headed off to get our compostela's - well, to join the incredibly long line to get out compostela's and then off to our hotels for some much needed rest before meeting up for tapas later on.

It is easy to spot fellow pilgrims in the streets even without poles, packs and boots. They usually have sandals with socks, not overly fashionable but practical clothes and often walking slowly and stiffly/sorely with a shuffle or hobble. Many stop to say congratulations or share a smile as we pass like we know a secret that the other people in the street don't know.

Today I made a decision. If/when I am accepted to study medicine, when I finish I will walk the Camino again but this time it will be the whole thing from St Jean, all 800km of it. The Camino takes a lot, every day you have to give it everything you have and in return it can give you exactly what you need (if not necessarily what you want). So this time I have walked in hope, next time I walk with thanks.

And I will go on to Finisterre, because for me that is the end of the journey. I wont do it on foot, when I got to my hotel after leaving the cathedral I discovered a blister the size of Mars on my toe that means I will lose my toenail now, not to mention all the rest of the pain my poor body is producing! Yes, it's a bus for me - Onwards to the end of the world!!

[ClaireB]

Thanks everyone for your words of support - it was an amazing experience and I wouldn't trade any of it for anything (even the bad bits!)

Liz - 2 sprained ankles doesn't sound like fun at all but well, we do what we think we have to and congratulations for doing it another 2 times!!!

[freedom13]

Well done Claire and a very well written journal too ....
If you want a photo of the 13km marker you can borrow my avatar photo lol, I made sure to get a pic of my rucksack at the 13 km marker as that is my birthday , you can edit out the ruchsack and the graffiti:-]]
Well done again . http://i658.photobucket.com/albums/u...om1313/061.jpg