Hotels and B & Bs on the Camino Frances

[Dobby the house elf]

First thing is an apology to all the purists!!

I'm hoping to set out, as a first timer, from St Jean sometime between the last week in August and the first 2 weeks of September.Planning on 5 or so weeks. I'll be with my wife who wants to walk the Camino but is not to keen on the big hostels, so we are aiming to stay in hotels or B & Bs for the most part. I see no harm in putting some money in the local economies and I agree that we will miss out on some aspects of Camino life but that's the plan.

I keep reading about how busy this year has been, does anyone have any ideas as to whether we will get hotel or good B & Bs at this time of the year? Has anyone on the forum done it that way?

We will be taking sleeping bags etc just in case.

Thanks to all on the forums, it's been a great help in planning.

[Lipka149]

First thing is an apology to all the purists!!

Good heavens Dobby ! You are a free elf, how do you get any more pure than that ???

I'll be with my wife who wants to walk the Camino but is not to keen on the big hostels, so we are aiming to stay in hotels or B & Bs for the most part.

Walking the Camino with your wife ... man, IMHO, it just doesn't get any better than that ! I did it with my son, which was wonderful, and we all do it with each other, no matter where we stay, but the husband/wife teams I made friends with had it all. Can't wait to do this with Donna ... and believe me, we will be staying in places where we can sleep together !

[grayland]

Staying in Albergues is a choice. It is simply the way some people choose to walk their Camino. Many who choose the albergue route will argue that that is only "proper" way. Don't worry about it...that is simply their opinion.
I have done it both ways as many of us have.
You will have little or no problem finding small hotels all along the way. They have different names (hotel, pension, casa rural, etc) but the actual rooms differ very little. They are available in small towns and large cities. Some have shared baths and many have en suite baths. You should not have to worry too much about reservations at that time of the year and will be able to get a feel for it after a couple of days. Most of the pressure for beds occur in the albergues.
We often just walk into a place we want to stay and look for something if we are not staying at an albergue. John Brierley's guide gives a good choice of alternative lodging.

[unadara]

I spoke to a sister and brother recently who stayed in private rooms/houses-favourite ones were over "bars", they did enjoy a few wines and not having to get up and out so early in the morning. My husband and I will be on a tight budget but I hope to get a good nights sleep every so often ? when the village looks good, mood is good/bad! No need to book ahead I believe if after Aug-we go 13th Sep-mid Oct. So excited. Buen Camino
Una

[Dobby the house elf]

Thanks, so far I'm really encouraged. Now I'm starting to wonder, if I'm going to get a proper bed on most nights, can I leave the sleeping bag ( 900gms) behind and just take my silk liner (100gms)? On the few times that I might need the extra warmth I'm sure I could layer up with some of the daytime clothes. The walk will mostly cover September. I'd hate to end the walk having carried nearly an extra kilo that I didn't use, also bearing in mind that as my load should be more than my wife's I would be carrying hers as well.

I've got the Brierley guide which seems quite good for hotels. I guess B&Bs will be signed up informally as you pass through towns and villages.

[HuskyNerd]

Hi Dobby ~
Love your screen name and I'm sure you're a lot more cuddly than the H Potter version.

This year I found several towns along the Camino Frances where all rooms of any kind were gone by mid-afternoon. This was true especially on the first two-thirds or so of the Camino where this year there is a big bunch of non-Spanish pilgrims who waited out the 2010 Holy Year and set their hearts on a 2011 camino from St. Jean Pied de Port. In May/June I found accommodations fully booked in Zubiri, Viana, Castrojeriz and Foncebadon and heard rumors about other places, too. It seems the albergues fill up first, then the cheaper hotels, then the more expensive hotels last. After the albergues are full local residents of some towns will seek out pilgrims and offer a room in their home (like the B&B arrangement you're referring to), sometimes for an extravagant price.

I traveled the last 250 kms of the camino in 2008 with my wife (who wasn't interested in albergues) and used this strategy to get a hotel room: As you walk, use your Brierley guidebook to identify a hotel at the next day's destination. When you check in at this day's destination ask the person at the front desk to call ahead for you to the next day's hotel and make a reservation. They're generally happy to help that way. Brierley nicely supplies the phone number for lots of hotels. The desk person may also have a recommendation for your next night's stay. If you make day-in-advance reservations like this your itinerary stays flexible and you're not scurrying around for accommodation when you arrive each afternoon (like us albergue pilgrims).

Best to change your vocabulary right away, because if you ask for a B&B in Spain they'll have no idea what you're talking about. As Grayland mentioned, you're dealing with "habitaciones" in hotels/hostels, pensiones or casas rurales. A "habitation" is a room. A hotel is a "hotel" or "hostel". A "casa rural" is usually a stand-alone house, sometimes on a farm, usually outside of town meaning a car ride away (sometimes they'll pick you up). A "pension" in general is a room with a bathroom down the hall. You'll discover that the occasional albergue also has private rooms (e.g. Belorado). All of these options, including the albergues, may or may not offer breakfast. And all of these Spanish names may or may not consistently be applied in Spain. The only thing you can count on is that they're not called B&Bs!

Hope this helps. Buen camino ~
Sandy

[BHinSanDiego]

A husband and wife from here in San Diego did the Camino a couple of times staying in the types of places you desire. He also wrote a book about it and mentioned it quite often, the book is "Buen Camino by Jim Clem", seeing you're in Sussex you may not have time to find the book to get some insight but they do have a website camino de santiago, you can contact them and I'm sure they can pass along a lot of valuable information.
Ultreya,
Barry

[netia]

Hi Dobby,
I'm leaving for my first camino also at the end of August....August 25th to be exact!
After reading lots of discussions from 'purists'..I've actually felt quite a lot of guilt, as I'm not staying in albergues but in
reasonably priced accommodation where I have my own room. Also I've elected to have my backpack transported. I'm carrying a day pack....which believe me, loaded with water, food clothes etc., is heavy after walking 15-20 kms. I've been very committed to being fit for this walk,I'm a 54yo female, walking at least 120 kms a week for the past 3 months...and I feel great!!! I feel a little sad that there's an expectation that the camino should be done in a certain way. I feel that to actually commit to walking the 800 kms is a test of character and strength in itself. I'm hoping to immerse myself in the whole experience, meet many, many new friends and gain a greater insight to my spirituality. I can fully appreciate the philosophy of freeing oneself of all baggage but I feel the challenge for me, is completing the 800 kms, happily and being fully able to enjoy the experience to the fullest .
We all operate in different ways, that's what makes us all so special!
Have a wonderful walk...and who knows, I meet you and your wife along the way : )
Netia

[Dobby the house elf]

Thanks Sandy and Barry.
You are right, I am more cuddly than Dobby but I hope to be less so after the walk!
I'll take note of the different terms for the accommodation. I used B&B more as a generic term as this is an English language site but I can see your point as there seem to be many variations on that theme. I'll try to be more precise or I could end up with something I didn't want.

I think I can get the Jim Clem book from Amazon in time for my trip. I've been watching the current temperatures and I might wait until the start of September. I am in the fortunate position that with Voldemort gone Harry Potter doesn't need me and I can do as I please. However, mistress still demands that I conjure up a comfortable bed most nights, so that still remains my main problem.

[BHinSanDiego]

Hey Netia, Though some may subscribe to doing the Camino in a certain way rest assured that the bottom line is everyone has to put one foot in front of the other, walking those kilometers, there is nothing easy about it, it's an accomplishment that you will be proud of and no matter where you sleep, be it an alburgue, pension, hotel, whatever, you got there by putting those two feet one in front of the other for hours on end and earned whatever way of rest you desire!
Ultreya,
Barry

[Lipka149]

... the bottom line is everyone has to put one foot in front of the other, walking those kilometers, there is nothing easy about it, it's an accomplishment that you will be proud of and no matter where you sleep, be it an alburgue, pension, hotel, whatever, you got there by putting those two feet one in front of the other for hours on end and earned whatever way of rest you desire!
Ultreya,
Barry

Thank you, Barry, for one of the best definitions of Ultreya that I have ever read.

Buen Camino Netia, y ultreya, ultreya, ultreya !

[Salamina]

Hey, I am currently walking the Camino Frances, started August 4 in Saint Jean. It was a bit crowded at the beginning, but I have always managed to find a place to sleep. I can really recommend one B&B in Navarette. Casa Peregrinando It was fantastic! So if you happen to make a step there, try to get there. The owner makes fantastic dinner and it is really lovely. If I find something more on the way, will try to let you know!

[grayland]

Thanks for the report, Salamina. Buen Camino.
We will look forward to more reports. I would imagine it is a little warm on the Camino right now. : )

[Covey]

Netia........ There is one Golden Rule of the Camino Trail......."It is your Camino and you walk it which ever way you want" Other than the rule that if you want to stay in albergues you need a Pilgrim Passport, there are no other rules!

You start from where ever you want, when you want, walk at whatever pace you are comfortable with, walk alone or in a "family", be sociable, or a loner, walk, ride a bike or a horse, do 40kms a day or 10kms a day.

That is the real joy of the Camino. Probably for the first time in a long time, you are free to do exactly what you want and nobody will be there telling you where to go or when to do something. When I set off in the mornings, I usually have no idea where I am going to end up that night. It depends on the weather, my companions (if any!) how I feel etc etc.

Just empty your mind of all the clutter of normal life, look up and say to yourself "I can do this" and let your feet follow the yellow arrows all the way to Santiago.

[netia]

Thank you so much for your comment Covey. As the start of my turn to set out on El Camino Frances draws very near now.... 7 days until I leave Melbourne.... I'm feeling very excited and emotional! Not quite sure why emotional.... but I feel as if the camino is something that I was always meant to do in my life journey. I will heed your advice..... : )

[Anso]

Probably for the first time in a long time, you are free to do exactly what you want and nobody will be there telling you where to go or when to do something. When I set off in the mornings, I usually have no idea where I am going to end up that night. It depends on the weather, my companions (if any!) how I feel etc etc.

Just empty your mind of all the clutter of normal life, look up and say to yourself "I can do this" and let your feet follow the yellow arrows all the way to Santiago.

Nicely put Covey, it's only two more weeks before my first camino and I'm starting to worry that my preparation/planning is not perfect, but very sound advise mate, thanks.

[netia]

Well put Barry! Guilt eradicated! Counting down the days now...

[unadara]

I locked my keys in the car today outside the supermarket, when Garry came to rescue me (not far) my first thought was in 4 weeks time I will not be carrying any keys, driving any car (for 7 weeks) and have very little shopping to do either...except food which I love! Counting down the days does not describe the excitement building, also nerves/but no worry..
Buen Camino Netia and Anso

[Covey]

I was thinking of marketing Camino Therapy Trips for those with a taste for "excessive shopping".

When you have to carry what you buy on your back for a few hundred miles, the urge to add to the load evaporates and one seriously re-evaluates what is necessary in life, and wot ain't!!

Shortening your toothbrush handle to save weight might be considered obsessive, but the old kit area at Roncesvalles used to be full of expensive kit, lovingly packed and hauled up the 20km hill to the top of the Pyrenees. Somewhere along the route from St Jean to Roncesvalles most Pilgrims suffer a reality check and it dawns on most that this forums advice about 10kgs on your back ALL UP is not quite so arbitrary after all!

The funniest thing I have ever seen dumped in the basement at Roncesvalles was a 1kg tub of Leg Wax left by two very pretty French girls who were determined not to let French womanhood down!, but 1kg was 1kg and for a great many miles.

Rich or poor, young or old, the Camino is a great leveller!!

[unadara]

Covey
Is there a thread re the things I should not have brought with me, would love to see you experienced guys comment on what you have seen abandoned (besides tents and sleeping mats)..but also things you have seen people carrying that you would NOT..etc. Maybe in my future life as a "peregrino" I could start a new thread. Even looking at some photos, videos on you tube I've said to myself-hey thats a new scarf/hat/jacket/pair of JEANS... she's wearing..in the movie "The Way" one of the best bits was the guy who wanted to lose weight to fit into his "old suit" but at the end decides to buy a "new suit". I'll be on the look out for fashion trends, useless items, changes of clothing etc...I do hope though that no one realises that I am wearing only a black or blue top throughout..and 1 pair of shorts-hope the sun shines for 35 days straight.

[grayland]

I can assure you that no one will notice or care if you wear the same set of clothes everyday...many people do. I suspect they do wash them once in a while, but not positive.
Really is one of the few places in the world that the women began to not worry about hair, clothes, makeup, etc.
You will enjoy the freedom.

[Covey]

I usually reckon that Burgos is the place when most Pilgrims on the Camino Frances admit to themselves that they could make do with only 50% of what they are actually carrying.

My very nice Craghopper Gortex rain jacket has been down the Camino Frances five times so far, which is about the number of times I have actually used it!! If it rains on the trail I don't bother with putting on and off my rain jacket cos you get wet on the inside through perspiration anyway. The only time I use the rain jacket is wandering around town looking like a tourist!!

I take a pair of Crocs for wearing in the shower and in the evenings. Useful but not vital! I take three spare walking shirts (Berghaus), pants and socks plus what I am wearing, but that is just convenience for me cos I only have to do washing every four days instead of every day. I could happily manage with what I am wearing "and a spare". I carry cotton long johns and top for sleeping in but could just as easily sleep in what I am wearing tomorrow.

A fleece is essential in my planning, as is my silk sleeping bag liner and this year my treated fitted single sheet. This year I am carrying Brierleys Guide to the Camino Portuguese which is the first Camino guide I have ever carried.

Ever since my first Camino I have been threatening to do a "minimalist pack" taking only those things that are vital to life, but every year so far I have chickened out and take what I took the year before!!! In the Army we had a saying "Any fool can be uncomfortable!!" but the reality is that we all haul lots of kit we don't really need across Northern Spain "just in case!"

I have never tried walking in jeans but they are supposed to be the worst thing you can wear.

[Covey]

Of course, Greyland probably did not bump in to any French ladies along the Way. If you see a lady who is color co-ordinated, wearing a little makeup and some Bling, she is French. She will probably have a small travel hair dryer in her pack and an assortment of smellies which brighten up the somewhat fetid life of an albergue.

Last year I spent some time in our albergue in St Jean trying to persuade two very pretty French twenty somethings that leg waxing was rather a wasted occupation on the Camino and that the very large pot of wax which they had packed so they could look their best at all times was not really needed on the journey!.

They had started at Le Puy and apparently were in great need of "de-waxing" by the time they got to St Jean. I last saw the 1kg pot of leg-wax sitting on the "surplus kit" shelves in the basement of the old albergue barn at Roncesvalles awaiting a new owner.

The rest of us wander the trail in our "Charity Shop Chic look". I was once given a very funny look by a shop assistant in a camping store in London as I weighed two shirts, one in each hand. All I am interested in is what is the lightest kit and what has multiple uses.

Secretly, most males relish the ability to wander the Way in rumpled clothing which is light and comfortable. There is usually no Senior Management aka "She Who Must Be Obeyed" announcing that she will not permit you to accompany her in what you were wearing yesterday (and for a few days before!) and you would certainly not be allowed out before ironing all your clothes. We can even go for a couple of days without shaving!! Bliss!!! We can eat lots of things which are not good for us ( chocolate cake for breakfast!!) and there is nobody counting our calories (calories are GOOD on the Camino!) or the number of beers we have had (one must consider one's fluid intake in that heat!).

Of course, those males who find themselves accompanying their Significant Other Half on the Camino will be staggering along under a monster rucksack the contents of which are mostly to take care of the comforts of Senior Management. With luck, the Single Liberated Males will smuggle the Burdened One out the back door of the albergue to attend afternoon Mass in an appropriate place where the beer is cold and the company convivial. However, for The Burdened One there is no escape except the Bag Service to the next albergue!!!

[unadara]

I think Covey you might transpose the sexual characteristics in "our" case! I might be the "one" slipping out to "mass" while himself takes a snooze. And am really looking forward to the crumpled look...himself loves not to shave though, our bags may have to be photographed and weighed with witnesses so I can convince you I am not senior mgt, food will be interesting too as i eat almost anything and he is fussy! but does like bread and cheese..wait till we get to pulpo territory. I will have the camera and guidebook as that is my thing, I hope that we can agree to go along at different paces if necessary, I will report back. There are some health issues too but let's hope I won't have to tell anyone "his" story. I do remember though one long distance challenge my "team mates" carrying my bag to the finish line -only once mind you, they were so fitter than me!! and I was team leader haha..

[Gazza]

Unadera

I am jealous of you having that freedom in 7 weeks time. It really is a strange thing to get use to.
I did this trek with my "snr Management" last year. We walked at different paces at time & met different people, but always rejoined for meals & Albergues. She enjouyed "mass" as much as I did, Vino Blanco & Cervesa, ahhhh the memories watching pilgrims walk in & join us.

I carried bits n pieces extra & generally the food (but not always). It was generally fair & equitable.

One thing we didn't take & got caught out twice, was a corksrew for wine bottles. In Australia we have converted to screw caps but in Northern Spain, not so

[unadara]

Hi Gary
Thanks, I have always carried a cork screw while hiking but have not got one on my list-I will make sure to add it, were you having a "wine" with your picnic lunch perhaps ? or having a little night cap-my other half is also called Garry.
I recovered notes from Spanish classes to have glance at and found at my first class in 2003 I stated my reason for learning spanish as " for walking the Camino" can you believe I only had to wait 8yrs to retire (early mind you) and get the chance to do 39 days total, other 6 days will be spent in Lourdes before the "walk".
Una and Garry

[Covey]

Netia........ Buen Camino, and a safe journey!

[Dobby the house elf]

Decided that it was time to walk. We arrive in St Jean on Thursday 25th Aug and start walking on Friday. Walking with daypacks up to Orrisson or a bit beyond, taxi back to St Jean. Comfortable night then taxi back to Orrison to carry on, with full kit. Wife happy with nice bed, technically not missing any of the route and a nice gentle start.
I have a blue pack, my wife purple and she will be heard saying " What's wrong with a holiday in the Maldives ". Actually we are both excited and looking forward to it. Hope to meet lots of you out there.
See you soon.

[Covey]

It does seem a complicated way to walk 7kms!! If I were you, I would give your pack to Express Burricot Express Bourricot whose office is about 25m from the Pilgrim Office in St Jean and let them take the packs to Roncesvalles whilst you either go "over the top" if the weather is nice, or if the weather is not so good, take the Winter Route via Valcarlos.

On the Route Napoleon (the over the top way!) there are no rest stops after Orrison, so once you start out from Orrison you have 20kms to go. If you take the Winter Route, which follows the original road which threads its way through the valleys, then there are many places to stop for food, drink and a breather.

Orrison is 7kms from St Jean so your current plan involves a lot of expense and hassle for little gain.

[Dobby the house elf]

Thanks Covey but the St Jean hotel is booked. I am actually hoping to get a bit passed Orisson. Looking at some maps the route does seem follow the road for quite a bit, for the taxi. It would mean that our 'real' first day would have it's back broken as we go over the top. So far the weather forecast looks good. It would be a shame to have planned all this and then have to take the winter route because of the weather. This, by the way, is the only planned bit. The rest will be as it turns out.