Notes on a Winter Camino - French Route from Burgos January 2012

[Stu]

Hi everyone,
I finished my first camino four days ago, having walked between Burgos and Santiago in 17 days, ending January 30. As a thank you for the useful info I found on this site, I thought I would add to it myself, and include below information that I hope will be of use to others.

Before I continue I just want to say that this is just a summary of my own personal experiences on the journey. I was lucky enough to have good weather for the vast majority of my journey Still, I experienced temperatures ranging from -2C to 12C, snow, rain and fog. My advice below is based on an expectation of this or worse.

Getting there and back

I found that flying into Bilbao with Easyjet and out from Santiago with Ryanair to be the cheapest option. Bilbao has regular bus and train services to Roncevalles, Pamplona and Burgos (my starting point). Even a longish journey to Bilbao only cost 12.75E, so it's a lot cheaper to travel in Spain than back home. Also, not being exactly sure when I would finish the camino, I didn't book my return until I was almost at Santiago, using an internet cafe to print off my boarding pass.

What to take

Having compared notes with other peregrinos, the secret to a good walk relies on footwear (more in a bit) and carrying the least amount you can get away with. One Dutch guy I finished the walk with, who had been walking since Rotterdam (2,500Km!), carried only toiletries, head torch, sleeping bag, a book and a journal. That's it. Still, I think that's a bit radical and may not suit everyone, so, were I to do the walk again I would carry;
A bag with a good quality hip belt (so the weight is not on my shoulders) of 40l or there abouts. People talk about carrying very small bags, but no matter how little you carry you do not want to be covering large distances with weight bearing down on your shoulders. A spare over-size light-weight fleece, to go over your fist fleece when the weather is particularly cold (mornings) and can be used in bed or temporarily when your other clothes are being washed and dried. 1 spare pair of undies and socks. Toiletries. A good guide book (I took the Brierley), essential for planning or when you think you're lost. A sleeping bag rated down to -2C. First aid kit with micropore tape, assorted plasters and antiseptic cream. Spare pair of laces. Good quality torch. Gloves. light-weight waterproof slippers (i.e. flip flops or crocs). waterproof overtrousers. And, finally worn on the body - boots, socks, hiking trousers, base layer top, fleece and waterproof outer layer. Also, sports undies of the non-cotton type are helpful.

Boots

Getting this right is critical. I have years of experience of hiking in all sorts of terrain (for work and leisure) and, as a trainee Osteopath, some professional interest in the topic. Walking the Camino trail is not the same as walking around Britain. Whatever you wear you must ensure that you have high quality cushioned insoles. I met, and helped, many people whose insoles gave little cushioning and all had problems with painful feet. One very lovely Mexican woman I met, who had travelled all the way from Saint Jean had to give up at Sarria on doctors orders, all because of inadequate cushioning causing damage. Even if you don't have to stop for this reason it will undoubtedly make your journey a misery. Unless you plan on making your camino some sort of penance, I would recommend getting the best cushion insoles you can. Many people in boots also suffered from blisters. There's already plenty written on how to avoid this so I won't repeat it all here. Some folks I met even went as far as sending their boots home and buying hiking trainers. Personally, I would not recommend this as in many places the ground is very uneven and ankle support necessary to minimise the chance of ankle damage. If you have to get insoles in Spain, ask for 'plantillas ortopedicas' in a pharmacy or, better still, at a podiatrist. These are readily available but if you wait until your feet hurt it will be days before they recover.

Along the way

Calzadilla de los Hermanilos
Beware of the municipal albergue. This was not being maintained properly. Keys can be obtained from the (surly) elderly couple living directly opposite the albergue. We found it dirty and it is heated only by a wood burning stove but there were no adequate supplies of wood and nowhere to buy any, so it was freezing for the duration. There is a small local shop a few blocks away. The shopkeeper speaks no English but is very friendly and helpful. If you want bread (pan) he'll take you out the shop and around the corner to a white van. You're not being kidnapped, that's just where the bread is kept.

Villar de Mazarife
As you enter the town there's an albergue on the right (sorry, forgotten the name). The guy who was running it, Sergio, used to be a trained chef and worked in some fancy places before turning his back on it all. For the best meal that 9E (or ten times that much) can buy, stay here. You won't regret it.

Villafranca
Do NOT stay at the Ave Fenix albergue if you can avoid it (unfortunately the municipal is closed for repair). Unless, that is, you like getting bitten by bed bugs and spending hours and lots of euros washing and drying all your kit.

Sarria
The Breirley guide map of the albergue is misleading. I came across two other lost pilgrims. Follow the stairs up to the very top, turn left and the albergue is about 50 yards on the left.

Santiago
There are a couple of new albergues located in the centre of town owned by an ex-pilgrim and family run. They're called Roots & Boots and O Fogar de Teodomiro. I stayed 2 days and highly recommend the latter.

Also, there is a large souvenir shop almost adjacent to the pilgrim office where you collect your Compostela (on the same side of the road, closer to the Cathedral). I would urge you to boycott this shop. Not realising I understand Spanish I overheard a conversation between a local and the owner, who has a very low opinion of pilgrims.

That's about it. If I think of anything else I'll add it or if you have any questions please feel free to ask.

[Lipka149]

As a thank you for the useful info I found on this site, I thought I would add to it myself, and include below information that I hope will be of use to others.

Many thanks Stu, this is really good stuff !

I was lucky enough to have good weather for the vast majority of my journey Still, I experienced temperatures ranging from -2C to 12C, snow, rain and fog. My advice below is based on an expectation of this or worse.

Cold. Good weather for January ... yeah man, you were most fortunate !!!

People talk about carrying very small bags, but no matter how little you carry you do not want to be covering large distances with weight bearing down on your shoulders.

Everyone ... take note !!! Carry it in your hands, on a your belt, across a stick. Anything to get it off your shoulders.

A spare over-size light-weight fleece, to go over your fist fleece when the weather is particularly cold (mornings) and can be used in bed or temporarily when your other clothes are being washed and dried.

Essential. Cold is not fun.

1 spare pair of undies and socks. Toiletries. A good guide book (I took the Brierley), essential for planning or when you think you're lost.

Spares of this nature are a good thing. Sometimes you will be so tired, washing the dirties will be ... inconvenient. Having a spare set of freshies will be heavenly !

...sports undies of the non-cotton type are helpful.

Essential !!! Irritation in this area will drop you in your tracks ! Spend the money to get good undies.

[LolaLil]

Thank you for sharing your notes. I'm leaving for Madrid 8/27 and plan to start the pilgrimage 8/31.

[freedom13]

Congratulations Stu , well done on your first Camino.
A very well written article, lots for people to take from it.

[Stu]

[QUOTE=Stu;13538]
Sarria
The Breirley guide map of the albergue is misleading. I came across two other lost pilgrims. Follow the stairs up to the very top, turn left and the albergue is about 50 yards on the left.

Hi again,

Just a quick correction. The albergue is up to the top of the stairs, turn RIGHT and its on the left.

HIKING POLES

I know a lot of people are divided on this issue. Personally, I think it's just down to taste. I take one when I go hiking, including on the Camino, and tend just to use it to test the quality of dodgy looking ground and for steep descents. I saw plenty of folk on the camino using one, and just as many using none.

I carry my hiking pole for a variety of other reasons which I'd thought I'd share as some may also find it useful;
- Sentimental reasons - I've had it a long time and its been with me many places. Carrying it kind of ties it all together for me, on an emotional level.
- I use a monopod type pole, where the end can be unscrewed and a camera attached. I find this useful as you can dig it right into soft ground and it gives a nice perspective for the photo.
- I wrap about 1m of duck tape around the pole, which keeps it handy - in my experience you usually need duck tape when weather conditions are at their worse and not having to dig into your bag for it is helpful. On this journey mine was used to go over the laces of someone's not-so-waterproof boots, to repair the waterproof cover over my guide and to hold a washing line in place. Like I say, useful.
- I also wrap 6m of 3mm static cord around the pole. Not only does the cord make the pole look a bit nicer (especially if you know how to tie a knot) but the cord gets used as a washing line and for replacing broken laces, plus anything else you might need some cord for.

I read peoples concerns about wild dogs on the camino and the suggestion of using a hiking pole to fend them off. I've had dogs since I was a child and if a dog comes at you it is far more likely that it will be because of the stick than because of you. Unfortunately, many dogs, especially strays, are beaten with sticks and react badly to them. Lets face it, if you're genuinely being threatened by a dog big enough to pose a real threat then a stick is probably not going to be of much use, useless you're a quarterstaff expert, etc. One guy I spoke to had had a dog try to bite his ankle. But that was the yappy lap-dog type in Sarria. He wasn't carrying any stick. Another incident I witnessed, the dog was clearly upset by the stick not the peregrino and once the wooden stick was put out of view the dog calmed down.

[SaraHu]

It’s a big surprise to have found Stu on this website after my way. Stu and I walked 2 days and reached Santiago together! I now recall that I had read his thread about ‘Advice needed for January 2012 Camino Walk’ before my walk but I never expected to meet him on the way.. What a nice coincident! We are now very close friends. Isn’t it fate?

As Stu is a very organized person and he has listed all the essential advices, I would just add some of my personal opinions. You may just take whatever you are comfort with.

Comparing to Stu, I did not take things below:

1) Guidebook. I counted on people who can speak Spanish and with a book like Stu. By rare chance you couldn’t meet any. If I didn’t find such people, I would just walk until the next big town, or stay anywhere…I did find some simple wooden house built for camping-oriented people. But I have to emphasize that there are few and don’t rely on it especially in cold weather.

2) Camera. I took photos with my iphone. And I also took a removable power supply. So if there are not plenty of sockets in summer time, you can use it to charge your phone, camera and anything else in 2-3 days.

3) First aid kit. Some municipal albergues have first aid kits. You can also buy medicines in the pharmacies in bigger towns along the way. But if you don’t mind extra weight, it would be of great help. As to Stu, he saved himself with his kit when he stupidly get himself hurt by jumping out of the way to avoid a car

4) Spare pair of laces. As long as yours are good.

5) Hiking poles. I used to take both knee support and hiking poles in mountain trekking coz I have injured knees. But on this way I found it unnecessary at all. There is no big descending and you can pick up something as pole easily on your way if you’d like to.

I would add outdoor scarf to my list. It’s always a must in my trekking by making me warm and I also use it as eye cover when I can’t fall asleep with too much light.

Stu also took all of the snow equipments in his heavy backpack which he didn’t mention. He was quite proud of it as he thought he would be totally independent if it snowed. But unfortunately it didn’t. Well, he is not wrong

My rucksack weighed 6.5kg in total though I made a mistake of taking a too-warm sleeping bag (-10 degree) which was 1.5kg.

About boots, I would for sure take/wear a pair of trainer if I go there again. There are a lot of concrete roads I didn’t expect. I was totally fine with hiking shoes in mountains before but this time my ankle is still swelling due to too much walk with hard shoes even after one week recovery.

Last thing I could think of is that you can tell the pilgrim office to announce your starting point and nationality in the mass. I couldn’t get it when they announced mine in Spanish but I still find it very meaningful.

All the best to Stu and other pilgrims.

With love from Sarah