MY Camino 2011, Lessons learned on The Camino Frances Part 1

[John Hussey]

MY Camino 2011, Lessons learned on The Camino Frances:

part 1

I walked from 21 November 2011 and finished 03 December, SJPdP to Santiago, slower than my first Camino in 2005 but I am older and wanted to see more this time. Below are some of my observations from the experience:

Backpack – I kept it even lighter, 9 kilos or, later, even less, by using very few clothes and even less “stuff”. But I still failed to wear one of the three tee shirts I carried. Two was enough. This lighter pack helped me immensely. I pitied some who struggled along, burdened under a bigger pack, with far too much “stuff”.

Footwear – heavy boots are really not needed on The Camino. I wore only sandals or running shoes each day, just as on the past Caminos and on all my hikes in the mountains. This time I saw many more doing the same. Some people are wising up, it would appear.

Hiking Shorts & Layered Clothing – I hiked in shorts every day. It was quite cold some mornings but then I just started out walking faster to increase my core body heat, which, trapped in the few layers of thin clothing I wore, was more than enough to keep me warm. Plus, the lighter layers were far easier to remove and stow in my pack when the sun rose higher in the sky and heated up the countryside to a more enjoyable level. Thick, heavy clothing was just not needed for me either to wear or carry. One can regulate one’s core body temperature by the speed walked. I took a thin pair of RailRider hiking pants but only wore them in the evenings when I was not generating body heat by walking. I was not the only one wearing short pants and sandals during the day, even this late in the year.

Hiking poles, three observations:

First - For me they are not a luxury but a necessity. In the past I used just a single pole but this time, with my older and weaker knees, I took a pair of ergonomic British Pacer poles. It was simply amazing how much easier it was walking the distance with them, how much they helped me to power uphill and especially how much knee pressure they removed on the down hills. They made The Walk much more enjoyable for me with them. In fact, with my weak left knee, I am not sure I could have done it without them. Plus, by transferring some of the walking pressure to the upper body they helped, with each step I took, to build up the chest and arm muscles and not just those in the legs.

Second – Rubber tips - I kept the rubber tips on the poles every day. Surprisingly, they never completely wore out. I carried a spare pair of the little rubber tips but never used them. What the rubber tips did was to eliminate that objectionable clacking sound that metal-tipped poles make each time an uncovered metal tip strikes a hard surface. And, with the rubber tips in place I cannot recall a single time they slipped when I needed to brace one of them upon the ground. Plus, the rubber tips were less prone to punch those tiny little holes into the ground alongside The Camino so I left less of an impact with my passing.

Third – You CAN fly with hiking poles as Carry-on Luggage. At least you can through the US, but other countries may be different. Going over, from Florida to Madrid, I carried my small pack onboard as carry-on but checked my collapsed poles as luggage in the plane’s hold because I assumed that, since ski poles had to be checked, then hiking poles had to be checked too. I was wrong. The US Homeland Security flying rules plainly state that walking aids do not require being checked luggage. Comparing the two sets of poles I forgot about the long spiked tips of the ski poles that could be used as a weapon. My hiking poles did not have those long spiked tips. Plus, mine had rubber tips, further hiding the flat, small carbide tips of the two poles. Anyway, having a rather long wait at the Miami airport, waiting for my flight to Madrid, I asked a few of the security types I saw whether hiking poles needed to be checked and each confirmed that walking aids could be carried onboard. So, on the return flights, I collapsed my poles into three short sections each and stowed them inside my small pack and confidently carried them onboard with me. I had no problem whatsoever. The pack with two poles inside was scanned at the Madrid airport and again at the Miami airport after customs with nary a comment. So, I will not check them again! Had I known this I could have saved money on the Santiago to Madrid leg of my Camino and taken a cheap Ryan Air flight instead of the more expensive train.

Fanny Pack, a Better Way – I used the same fanny pack again on this Camino as in the past, as a waterproof place to keep my passport, credit cards, money, camera, guidebook, etc., at hand but it was still bulky around the waist and a pain in the arse to use. I saw a Canadian couple using a different system, much more efficient I decided. They each had an across the shoulder small bag with neat little zippered pockets which they said they had purchased from MEC in Canada and I resolved to get one before any other hiking trip.

[John Hussey]

MY Camino 2011, Lessons learned on The Camino Frances:

part 1...

Part 2 Continued:

Pre-Camino Exercise IS Necessary – I didn’t do it this time and it was a huge mistake. I was getting over a knee operation on my left knee before I left for Spain and so did few walks to toughen up my legs. For that mistake I paid a terrible price at the beginning of the Camino. The trek up and over the Pyrenees into Roncesvalles totally exhausted me. In Zubiri I had to take a rest day at the first Albergue just after the bridge into the village and in Burgos had to take two days more because I had tried far to hard pushing myself to keep up with a group much younger than me. In the past I had always done a lot of walking exercise and never had the pain and difficulty of this Camino. I don’t believe I became accustomed to the daily walks until somewhere after Burgos. It would have been far more enjoyable had I at least done some long walks before I left. Even though my pack, with snacks and some water, was quite light, the legs were just far too weak for the daily grind at the beginning of the Camino. I will exercise more before I do another!

Carry Less Water – In the past I carried a 2-liter Platypus with drinking tube and always had some at the end of the day. This time I took just a 1-liter Platypus with no drinking tube, and still had some at the end of the day. So, I began filling it only half full each morning in the albergues and on some days did not even drink that. But I stayed well hydrated because there is water everywhere along the Camino. It is in potable fountains, in every bar, in every restaurant, etc. I got in the habit of getting water at every source and finished the Camino taking no water along with me at all! Even after my cafes con leche, I always asked for a glass of water before I left the bar. Not carrying water further reduced my pack weight by 1 kilo.

Travel From Madrid Airport to St Jean Pied du Port. First of all there is now a train leaving directly from Barajas airport to The Renfe train station at Atocha in Madrid. There is also a Renfe office at the airport where I purchased my ticket from the airport to Pamplona. That was quite convenient for me. I spent the night at the albergue Municipal in Pamplona and next day took the 1800 hr bus to Roncesvalles. Meeting the bus in Roncesvalles was a multi person van that apparently meets every incoming bus to take the pilgrims from the stop in Roncesvalles to SJPdP for a small fee each, about 10 euro as I vaguely recall. Surprisingly enough, none of the hospitaleros in Pamplona knew about the van meeting all the buses, because I asked. They really should post this information for others to see.

Renfe Discount Pass, “Tarjeta Dorada” – If you are over 60, don’t fail to purchase this 5 euro pass before purchasing your ticket before any train travel in Spain as it provides you with about 25% discount during the week and about 40% off during weekends. It is well worth the cost but you must ask for it, if you qualify.


Bed Bugs – I only saw evidence of them on one pilgrim. Maybe it was the colder weather. Maybe it was that I had sprayed my sleeping bag, silk liner and backpack with copious amounts of permethrin and was never bothered with them. Using permethrin on what I had was a pound lighter than carrying a separate permethrin soaked fitted sheet from home to use on the Albergue mattresses. Plus, now many albergues hand out a top sheet and pillowcase made from some ultra-thin material when signing in and the additional sheet would have been a hindrance. I stayed mostly in municipal albergues when they were open.


Staying Connected - Another big difference between 2005 and 2011 for those of you who wish to stay connected is the ‘net access has changed. In 2005 most albergues had convenient computers for use to check one’s email. Cyber cafes were easily found in many villages and cities. Hardly anyone even carried a cell phone. But it was not so in 2011. Albergues had fewer computers and I saw NO cyber cafes at all. The reason, I guess, is that about everyone now seems to carry a personal smart phone for Internet access, thereby making it a necessity for the rest of us who decide not to, like me, to have one. Since so many have the smart phones many more places have free Wi-Fi access, including bars and restaurants. The Camino has evolved, but for better or worse? I reluctantly suppose I will take a smart phone with me if I do another.

Korean Pilgrims – A big difference here as well. While in 2005 there were no Korean pilgrims, that I can recall, but there were a huge number of them in 2011. I was told this was because the Pablo Coelho book had been translated into Korean and had generated the interest. As a group I found them to be about the friendliest and most polite group I have ever seen. They made a most welcome addition to the Camino experience and I made many Korean friends.

Soap – I am back to using just one bar of soap for everything, on my body and as shampoo while in the shower, as shaving soap afterwards, and then to wash out my underwear and socks in the washing sink after shaving. I love the Spanish hard soap bar La Toja Magno. It is an old soap, black in color, and has a faint odor, neither feminine nor masculine. It does make one’s clothes smell good, though. No liquid soaps for me which are heavier, with their water content. On the entire Camino, a month and a half, I used less than a bar and a half.

Stealing – Sadly, I finally experienced it directly. My lightweight Patagonia rain jacket turned up missing when I packed in the morning after spending the night in the almost full albergue municipal in Sarria. What a drag that was. It was on a Sunday morning when I discovered it missing so I had to wait another day to purchase a poncho from the small outfitter at the bottom of the hill when they opened on Monday. But, some good came of it as I spent the morning at the open air fair on the Camino on the outskirts of the city and had some of the best pulpo there under a tent. In all honesty I suspect the culprit may not have been a pilgrim but a homeless person using the facilities. There is a huge amount of unemployment in Spain.

Camino in Reverse – In 2005 I recall seeing only one person traveling in reverse after having walked to Santiago. But on this Camino in 2011, I saw many doing it.


Stop at Monte de Gozo and Go into Santiago in the Morning – I firmly believe this is best. First, the Albergue is huge, perhaps the largest of all along any Camino to Santiago. By this time you are traveling with close friends who are like family and the hospitalero there knows this and puts each small group into their own separate room, apparently no matter how small the group. Each room can sleep eight. We were five in our group. There is a laundry room at the bottom of the hill of this huge Albergue and we all pooled our dirty clothing, took turns minding the machines, and walked into Santiago the next day, clean, refreshed and with clean clothes. It felt good! We were sad to see it all end, walking into Santiago early that morning, but happy to be there!

Camino Difference between 2005 and 2011. I found a huge difference between the two Caminos, just six years apart, both in the number of pilgrims and those albergues remaining open in early winter. In 2005 there were far fewer people walking in November and December than there were in 2011 during those same months, perhaps three to four times fewer. And, in 2005, there were far more albergues open than in 2011. What a paradox-fewer pilgrims yet more open albergues then than now! In 2005 I never failed to easily find an albergue open and often we were just a few staying there. But in 2011, I occasionally searched to find an open albergue and in a few instances had to walk on to the next village, and, just once, three villages, before finding one open.

[nathan]

so detailed...so concise...so helpfull in many ways....a pleasure to read. is there a discount rail card for 45 year old english tubbies like me?
i'm even more tempted by trying running shoes this summer now,though sandals may be a step too far for me(forgive the pun)

[HuskyNerd]

Carry Less Water – In the past I carried a 2-liter Platypus with drinking tube and always had some at the end of the day. This time I took just a 1-liter Platypus with no drinking tube, and still had some at the end of the day. So, I began filling it only half full each morning in the albergues and on some days did not even drink that. But I stayed well hydrated because there is water everywhere along the Camino. It is in potable fountains, in every bar, in every restaurant, etc. I got in the habit of getting water at every source and finished the Camino taking no water along with me at all! Even after my cafes con leche, I always asked for a glass of water before I left the bar. Not carrying water further reduced my pack weight by 1 kilo.

Excellent post, as always, John! I'm delighted to hear about the train/bus/van connection through Pamplona especially. And great to know that poles (for those who need them) can be carried onboard airlines.

Concerning water, I think it's good to remember that a November pilgrim would need a lot less than a Jun/Jul/Aug pilgrim. Consider for instance the 9 km walk, much of it on a big uphill, from Castrojeriz to San Nicolas. There is one water fountain near the end, but in the summer there's a lot of blazing sun and a long, sweaty climb. Personally, I'd choose the extra weight and the assurance of having plenty to drink. Good to remember, too, that dehydration is a major cause of the tendonitis that plagues so many pilgrims.

Again, thanks for the great report!

[BHinSanDiego]

Great information! I especially liked the information about the train service from the airport to Atocha station, can't get any easier then that!

[stan1st]

Thanx John great info...especially for a 69 year old senior about to do his first 'Camino'

[John Hussey]

You are just 1 year older than me. I did not do any long walks before this Camino. I cannot stress it enough...just do it before you leave!. In the beginning stages I tried to keep up with two separate groups much younger than me and it was tough. Had I been in better shape I could have. At the end of the Camino I was finally in good enough shape to keep mostly up with an outstanding group of wonderful people, however i occasionally did lag behind. My old legs did not have the stamina of those of the younger ones. Good lu ck! You CAN do it!

[SparrowGirl]

So much useful information! Thank you John. I think I'll have to start carrying more during my weekend walks to see how much I can comfortably carry. My trekking poles will definitely come with me on my camino, even if Ryan Air make me check them in as luggage. I find them invaluable up and down hills and really can't be without them now. I will also definitely walk at my own pace rather than trying to keep up with other people - one of the main reasons why I decided to do this on my own. Interesting about the soap too - I probably would have packed separate shower gel, shampoo and washing liquid for my clothes. I'm learning so much on this forum!

[zzotte]

Wow! so kind of you John for sharing such a valuable information, my starting date is Oct 15 and is the perfect info I needed (I know the weather varies, butnever the less) so seldom someone details so much information upon they return, I am very grateful you have taken the time, thank you

One quick question if I may, did someone actually toke you jacket out ofyour backpack?

Thanks Again,
Zo

[Oak Hill Walkers]

John,

Great post! May I ask what kind of surgery you had on your knee? Arthroscopic or total knee replacement?

[John Hussey]

John,

Great post! May I ask what kind of surgery you had on your knee? Arthroscopic or total knee replacement?

Arthroscopic.

In retrospect, I believe now it was a mistake to have had it, too. Having the chance to do it over again, I wouldn't! Two Pacer Poles on the downhills seemed to remove the pounding pressure on my weaker, left knee. I am sorry I failed to use them on earlier hikes.

[John Hussey]

Wow! so kind of you John for sharing such a valuable information, my starting date is Oct 15 and is the perfect info I needed (I know the weather varies, butnever the less) so seldom someone details so much information upon they return, I am very grateful you have taken the time, thank you

One quick question if I may, did someone actually toke you jacket out ofyour backpack?

Thanks Again,
Zo

No, it was not taken from my backpack. I had the upper bunk in Sarria and either I tossed the rain jacket on the floor on top of my pack and other stuff or draped it on the back of my chair in the kitchen where we were all drinking wine and eating snacks that evening, then walked off and left it there for the night. I do recall that there was one person sitting alone, apart from us pilgrims whom i did not recognize that I thought might have been one of those "walking in reverse". It is my opinion that it was he who walked out with it when we pilgrims left for bed. So, if he truly needed it more than me, then so be it! I honestly consider it highly unlikely that one pilgrim would steal from another-not impossible, just highly unlikely/ I refer to think that way, regardless!

[zzotte]

It makes me feel better (in a sad kind of way) knowing that was taken under "target of opportunity" rather then having someone roaming thru my backpack while I am in bathroom or something.

Zo

[Catheriam]

Dear John!

Thank you for such good advice! I will not carry trekking poles, neither have I (knock wood) ever had knee surgery, but certainly your advice for those in either or both categories carries rich worth. I, too, am cutting down on my pack (Gregory AURA 50, specifically for a small framed woman of 67 on her second Camino in 10 years) and will definitely carry less. I will add an REI sleeping bag as those monumentally heavy refugio blankets were suffocating and never really warmed my chilly body core. Your soap recommend is most interesting, as I had planned on personal soap (Dead Sea Mud), shampoo and a bottle of Dr Bonner's to wash out the smalls and other clothing. Hmmm, must give that a long, re-assement.

I wanted a quieter route late April - early June to begin and frankly searched for a CFrancais alternative. Camino Portuguese? Not long enough -- I can take 6-8 weeks. Camino Sevilla? Um, just not fit enough and I am traveling alone. So, I am opting for Madrid-Sahagun - Santiago Compostela. Here's the million Euro Query: is either route going to be as crowded in refugios as I have been hearing about in recent years? I was never turned away from a bed in 2002 and opted a few nights for hotels. But wow, with the dollar so weak against the Euro, I am wondering how much to take (or have available via ATM) for alternative overnight options.

Then, again, Trust St James! He's the man!

Seeking Missouri connections for Camino chats!

[John Hussey]

So much useful information! Thank you John. I think I'll have to start carrying more during my weekend walks to see how much I can comfortably carry. My trekking poles will definitely come with me on my camino, even if Ryan Air make me check them in as luggage. I find them invaluable up and down hills and really can't be without them now. I will also definitely walk at my own pace rather than trying to keep up with other people - one of the main reasons why I decided to do this on my own. Interesting about the soap too - I probably would have packed separate shower gel, shampoo and washing liquid for my clothes. I'm learning so much on this forum!

I am not convinced it is the "carrying" portion of your exercise regime that is as crucial as is the "walking" portion of it. A small enough pack correctly carried rests gently upon your pelvic bones, from the waist up, supported by your bone structure and the only useful purpose of the shoulder straps is to hold the pack snugly against your back and not flap around. So, what muscles that do pound out the daily grind of more and more kilometers/day are those from the waist down, specifically the feet, legs, thigh muscles. It is my opinion that more thought should be given to exercising those muscle groups and the best way to do it is also the easiest, just by walking longer and longer distances. If you do it, your Camino will start out being immensely more enjoyable than it would have otherwise. I have done it both ways. I shall never again begin that daily grind without having conditioned my legs to longer and longer walks. An hour or so a few times a week walking around your neighborhood, wherever you live, will make it so much easier.

I do not know what Ryan Air's policy toward the trekking poles is but the US Homeland Security folks have decided that they cannot prohibit passenger's walking aids from being carried into the plane. My Pacer Poles collapse into three pieces each and stowed neatly and unobtrusively inside my pack.

Quite possibly rationalizing, my original thought was also to "walk at my own pace", but that proved to be difficult on more than one occasion. On the Camino we make close friends almost immediately and it becomes difficult not to make the effort to "walk THEIR own pace" once we leave the albergue in the morning, often as a loose group, chatting amongst ourselves,and walk off towards the west and the next village...and then the next..

[John Hussey]

Dear John!

Thank you for such good advice! I will not carry trekking poles, neither have I (knock wood) ever had knee surgery, but certainly your advice for those in either or both categories carries rich worth. I, too, am cutting down on my pack (Gregory AURA 50, specifically for a small framed woman of 67 on her second Camino in 10 years) and will definitely carry less. I will add an REI sleeping bag as those monumentally heavy refugio blankets were suffocating and never really warmed my chilly body core. Your soap recommend is most interesting, as I had planned on personal soap (Dead Sea Mud), shampoo and a bottle of Dr Bonner's to wash out the smalls and other clothing. Hmmm, must give that a long, re-assement.

I wanted a quieter route late April - early June to begin and frankly searched for a CFrancais alternative. Camino Portuguese? Not long enough -- I can take 6-8 weeks. Camino Sevilla? Um, just not fit enough and I am traveling alone. So, I am opting for Madrid-Sahagun - Santiago Compostela. Here's the million Euro Query: is either route going to be as crowded in refugios as I have been hearing about in recent years? I was never turned away from a bed in 2002 and opted a few nights for hotels. But wow, with the dollar so weak against the Euro, I am wondering how much to take (or have available via ATM) for alternative overnight options.

Then, again, Trust St James! He's the man!

Seeking Missouri connections for Camino chats!

Take as small a backpack as you can, with hip belt, though. The larger the pack the more likely you will be to "cram" extra items in for a "just in case" moment, that just might never occur. And I speak from experience as that was exactly what happened to me when I first began accumulating my equipment for backpacking. I am embarrassed to say just how heavy that first pack weighed, loaded for that first hike across a section of the continental Divide Trail in Colorado about twenty years or so ago.

On the Camino you should plan on carrying no more than about 20 pounds (hopefully less) and, to confirm it, consider buying an inexpensive scale and weigh your stuff. You would be surprised at how quickly things add up in weight. My largest pack, for unsupported hikes of more than a week, carrying food, extra water, cooking alcohol stove and cooking pot, fuel, shelter, Thermarest mat, etc., is only 43 liters. I used that pack on my last Camino because it weighs just 3.25 pounds and has a well-designed hip belt, for carrying 40 pounds of weight. It was way too big for a Camino walk without those aforementioned items, not needed on the more civilized Camino, but I like the pack.So, keep your pack weight down, however you manage it, and your body will thank you for it!

Trekking poles are another matter, though, and, like foot wear, are more of personal a preference than anything else. I cannot help but wonder,if I had begun using them earlier on in my hiking endeavors, like the AT downhills, would I have the constant knee tenderness I am experiencing now? Oh well!

Best of luck on your Camino. We are close enough in age that I am rooting for you to experience an outstanding one!

The only Caminos I am familiar with are the Camino Frances and Via de la Plata.

Ultreia e Suseia!

[SparrowGirl]

Thank you John. I can comfortably walk 15 miles on a Sunday (in fact did 18 miles last week), the challenge will be doing this day after day after day - a challenge I'm very much looking forward to I have to say. I just soooo excited and can't wait until Mid May. Oh, I did ache a bit after my 18-miler. I'm still working on getting my packing down to a minimum. Still taking mascara though - lol...