eating well on the camino

[selleri]

I thought I would start a thread where people could put tips on where to have a good meal, simple or fancy. Yes, I am a few kilos to heavy and I certainly find nothing better than a good meal after a walk or just healthy, simple food made and served with love. Can?t say the walk is a given when it comes to food and I know places change hands so info gets outdated, but here are two recommendations from me after a few days walking.

First is the restuarnat at the bottom of the hill in Torres del Rio, just after you have gone through the large pipe leading into the town, passed the water fountain, you will see a bar-resto highlighted in tacky signs pointing to your left. This place is run by Lili and Diego. The bar looks like nothing special (although I hear they do a good breakfast). Go up to the restaurant on first floor. Order the lentils if they have them as they are out of this world and you can say hi to Diego from Ivan. Some friends had dinner there and it seems not everything they make is exquisite but this is country cooking at its best. Go more for food based on local prodcution (asparagus, fennel, lentials, beans) than for things lieke spaghetti etc.

Next recommendation is in Viana. If you are walking in from Torres it might be your first coffee stop and La Taverna de Viana opposite the main cathedral and on the route about 500-600 metres after you first enter the town has great coffee but, more importantly, the best sandwiches (Bocadillos). Run by Jaime and his lovely firend Cristina (each said the other one was the boss so I will let you figure that one out). From there you will be well set for walk into Logrono, the centre of Rioja wine dealing and another fine place to pick up a good meal. In Logrono head for the market which is close to where you come in to town and near main cathedral. You have to time it right but if you arrive after 1330 you can hit one of the restaurants or tapas bars for a good meal before heading on.

regards, Ivan

[dad]

Thanks for starting this thread. I will begin my Camino on May 6th from Sarria and would be greatfill for any recomendations on good places to eat along the way. Like you I feel that a good meal at the end of a days walking makes it all worthwhile.

[Leslie]

i ate and ate and lost so much weight at the same time. I treated myself to ice cream most days and most nights I would eat the pilgrims menu somewhere.

There were few a places where I found the food great. I would not have a specific recommendations though. But...

Pamplona for tapas - wonderful
Leon, strangely I had great Pizza both times
Santiago and Finisterra great seafood - I could live on this forever.

Mostly I had such an appetite because of walking the food didn't matter much.

[selleri]

For those of you stopping in Santiago here are two good addresses if you really want to eat the best that the city has to offer and are prepared to splurge (30 plus Euro per person) for one night of celebration.

I had conflicting reports on eating in the old town with one person who is a food lover saying to avoid it at all costs and another recommending Restaurant El Pasaje on R/ do Franco 54 as a pricey restaurant with excellent fish. Alternatively I did try Nossa Terra on Rue Nova de Abaixo 5 where I ate the best oysters I have ever eaten. they specialise in sea-food but be prepared to pay expensive prices if you want to eat shellfish. The latter also have excellent wines and they know there wines so let them choose for you. You can sample excellent Ribeiros (white) and even better Godillos (also white) that will rival almost any wine anywhere in the world you could throw at them.

You cannot visit Santiago without trying the Pimentos de Padron. Unfortunately they are not in season in April but some places have them. You can spend a lovely morning wandering the market and buying them there but make sure you know how to prepare them (fried in olive oil and served with rock salt). They are miniature green peppers. Some are hot and some not so you never know if you will get a hot one but the mild are very mild and the hot not very hot so give it a try.

[selleri]

I was very fortunate to be invited to a restaurant in Santiago at the end of my pilgrimage to celebrate the event: I cannot recommend it more. I happened to notice the bill for two was 40 Euro per person with wine included so you have an idea of price. The setting is amazing (a private house where the tables are dispersed across the various living rooms on one floor and there is a private room for up to 10 people) in a village 6km from Santiago (this time I suggest a taxi rather than walking). The restaurant had a Michelin star and still deserves one in my opinion. The food was exquisite, the service a little less so but still excellent, the wines out of this world (make sure you try a Godillo for white and a Ribeira del Duero for red), and the deserts worthy of a miss (but we might have just had a bad day). Definitely a nice reward.

Address: Village of Vedra near Cibran (tel 981511769 - suggest you reserve). There is also a lovely 4 bedroom house next door that is well known and that does Tourismo Rural called Pazo Cibran that is also highly recommended if you wish to stay here and recuperate in some comfort for a few days.

[selleri]

As all soon find out, Gallicians are know for teh enormous amount of octupus they consume (pulpo) and Meldies is known as teh octopus eating capital of teh world. Before you stick your nose up you shoudl at least giive it a fair shake. It will not be for everyone, but is quite delicious. The key is in cooking the octupus just the right length of time as a few minutes too much or too little and it will be hard. The octpus is served on a wooden platter with olive oil drizzled on it, salt, and sweet paprika.

One of teh best places ot try it is as you enter Melides. After walking on a long stretch into the town with not a cafe or restaurant in site, the first eatery you come to is on your left which is also an internet cafe and bar. Go 100 metres further and you have a restaurant specialising in "pulpo" on your left open very late in the afternoon.

The other speciality of this region are the Empanadas. These are basically pies filled typically with cooked fare ranging from tuna, to meat, to fish. They are delicious and can also be picked up in most bars for a morning change to a sandwich. The best place to pick them up though is in the bread shops and if possible to catch them as they come out of the oven. They are best eaten warm if possible but are served cold in most bars. The best one I had was in Sarria, at the point where the Camino hits the main street in town you will see a bakery on the other side of the road. Before you turn right to head to the albergue, stop and pick up your Empanadas here.

[selleri]

Starting in Molinaseca and even before you will start seeing the word "Bierzo" written everywhere. From what I can tell many regions have a "bierzo" which essentially means an area where cattle and game are found. I kept thinking this was strange as when we walked through the Bierzo of Castillia e Leon there were hardly any cattle or livestock to be seen (and I say this coming from a region in which a lot of cattle are raised). Anyway when passing through this region there are two key things you have to taste which are specialities of the area: meat and red peppers. this region is known for its red peppers, particularly the ones that are roasted, peeled, and kept in olive oil as well as stuffed ones. Vilal Franca is a good a place as any to try these dishes together with the wine of the region which is called a Mencia (you will have walked through the vineyards approaching the village).

I highly recommend a visit to the best wine bar in the town, which double as a delicatessen during the day selling meats and cheeses. Here they really know their wines. these will be pricier than anything you are offered in a typical pelegrino bar if you want to taste the best ones, but they have all prices and numerous open bottles that change weekly and daily from which you can sample. This bar is called Mi Tenda (literally "My Shop") and I was served by a lovely person called Charo who offers small sandwiches for free with the servings of wine. The wine bar is located on c/ Jesus Adran 6 near the central square.

After this very enjoyable experience you can try your meat and red peppers if you want. The cooking in restaurants in Villafranca is more homely cooking so do not expect grandeur. You can have a pilgrim's menu or eat a la carte in Don Nacho (300 metres away from the wine bar and belonging to the same owners)

[ken huocj]

Lovingly prepared food, especially those at home, ar the best intro to the makers cultural roots. Sure looking forward to many morsels on the Camino beginning SJPDP on Sept 11th.
ps i will prepare and share meals where possible, and at least once a week ;-)))

[Sheens]

ALL i can say is, i am sooo sick of Bocadillos... i find it so hard to get anything else at lunch time. I feel like I am putting ON weight on this camino!! As for the tapas, they are so greasy, they dont do it for me either. Thanks for the suggestions of places in Santiago, cant wait to try them! If i ever see another bocadillo when i get back to dublin, i?ll set it on fire i swear to god

[ken huocj]

Thanx all for the insightful tips,
notes have been made
but i know the local markets and slow food products will be supported by me.
Those on the Camino Frances between Sept 11th and Oct 16th, wherever and whenever i am "wokking", please join me