Is backwards the way forward?

[jzukas]

Hi Wonderful Community,

Amazed by all the fantastic advice offered on this site- it is great to have such a supportive community. Huskynerd- you seem a fountain of all camino-related-knowledge.

So hopefully I can get some advice...

I booked flights into Valladolid (from 31st March-12th April) with a plan to walk from Leon towards Santiago but now I am being tempted by this alternative to the Camino Frances-

So my second plan was to walk from Salamanca up to Leon but I read that this may not be the most beautiful part of the Via de la Plata? Is that right?

My plan now is to still start in Salamanca... but walk south as far as Caceres. Then bus back to Valladolid. Is this allowed or will the albergues disapprove? Is it harder to follow the markers if you are going the 'wrong' way?

Any ideas/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Josh

[HuskyNerd]

Hi Josh ~
Welcome to the Forum. If it were me I'd stick with your original plan. For one thing, the March/April weather should be cool and the scenery should be green, which will be nice. For another the stretch from Leon through to the early part of Galicia is really very nice (with the exception of the Leon suburbs). Unless you've already done the Camino Frances I think your original (beginning on Camino Madrid) was a perfectly good plan.

I've heard of people (and met one, in a kilt no less) who walked backwards from Santiago. Although it was customary in medieval times to welcome these folks what I've heard (only rumor) is that some albergues do not allow returning walkers. And yes, I've heard it is difficult to follow the markers backward since you'd have to constantly be turning around to see the face of walls and signs that you've just passed.

If you wanted to do a little of the Road Less Traveled you could bus from Valladolid to Zamora and pick up the Via de la Plata and walk the Sanabres stretch vs. through Astorga/Leon. I did that last year and enjoyed it a lot. Far fewer pilgrims and greater distance between albergues. But if you're looking for solitude and a little adventure that's a great option.

Hope this helps. Buen camino ~
Sandy

[jzukas]

Hi Sandy,

Thanks for your speedy advice...

What about if I were to bus to Zamora and then follow the path up to Astorga? Is this a good part of the camino to do? I don't require spectacular scenery but I don't want to be walking along a busy road/highway.

I guess it is easy enough to get the pilgrims passport in Zamora? And do you know if there are adequately spaced albergues on this stretch?

Thanks again!

Josh

[HuskyNerd]

Hi Josh ~
Sounds like a good plan. There's a great Spanish online guide (with animations even) for the Via de la Plata between Zamora and Astorga at La V . Even if your Spanish isn't great the maps will show you albergues in this stretch and you can decide if there are enough (looks fine to me). If you have an iPhone there's also an iPhone app for this guide -- kinda handy. I've not been this way, but have met other pilgrims who have and they seem fine with it. I hope to do Sevilla to Astorga in the next few years so I'll enjoy hearing your review of this stretch.

I can't vouch for the availability of credenciales in Zamora. Contact info for Zamora's two albergues is in the guide, so unless other Forum folk know the answer you'd need to call ahead.

Hope this helps. Buen camino!
Sandy