Camino Frances or Via de la Plata?

[mmmdumplings]

Hi all,

I'm planning to do my first Camino in September, and I have tons of questions. But I'll just ask one at a time to keep it simple :-).

So, I've been doing a lot of research online, and I'm having trouble deciding between doing the Camino Frances or the Via de la Plata. A few things about myself and what I would like to take away from my journey to help you out:

- Time is not an issue, and neither is distance.
- The Via appeals to me because I've heard the Camino Frances gets pretty crowded. And while I would appreciate some solitude, I also think meeting other pilgrims is an essential part of any pilgrimage. However, I don't want to feel like a cow on a cattle drive or worry about competing with people for a bed.
- I've studied Spanish but never used it, so my ability to speak/comprehend is pretty elementary. Reading is a little better though.

So, what would you do if you were me? Or what are some of pros and/or cons of the two routes? I realize that either one I choose will be worth and I won't be disappointed because they both have their own merits, but I do have to make a decision in the end.

Thanks,
Katie

(Also posted in the Camino Frances forum)

[joannam]

Hi Katie

We cycled the Camino Frances in 2007 from Roncevalles and Via de la Plata in 2008 from Sevilla both times in April. This year I am walking the Camino Frances, when we cycled the Via de la Plata we thought it would be pretty hard to walk. It is certainly less travelled and even cycling we found it hard at times to find places to eat and the walkers had to walk quite long distances for accommodation. If you don't want the crowds just choose a quieter time, I think April is great, not too hot or cold.

Joanna

[noelieboy]

Greetings Katie,

I walked the entire French camino from St Jean-Pied-de-Port in Sept/Oct 2009 with a small group, and I heartily recommend it. I plan to walk the Via this year, starting in mid-September from Seville. At the moment I am alone; however, this may change, with family members or friends joining me for part or all.

The French camino is a lovely walk, challenging in places - not least the baptism of fire first day over the Pyrenees. There are many places to sleep, with pilgrims deciding on an ad hoc basis how much to walk each day, or indeed what quality of accommodation to choose. There were many, many pilgrims, from Europe, America and Australasia etc. We met many old faces each day along with new pilgrims too. People had the choice to converse/mix or stay aloof, and we often walked and/or dined in the company of very interesting people of all ages.

We chose Sept/Oct for a cooler journey on a less busy route than in summer. I expect that 2010 will be much,much busier, but less so later in the year. We had sunny and dry weather mostly; in 36 days we had only 2-3 days rain which we walked through. We had three very cold and frosty mornings towards the end; as I had no gloves I used socks on my hands and they were just as effective.

From my research and preparation the Via de la Plata will be much quieter, with far fewer options on where to stay. Some of the days are 30kms or more, with little or no accommodation in between. Sometimes even the bars and shops are sparse - no big problem except that you MUST carry plenty of water and food. Incidentally, I was very judicious in my packing, yet I dumped some items after the first week, and I will take less this year.

I have lots more to say about packing light etc - perhaps in a later posting etc. I learned the absolute basics of Spanish from a Teach Yourself kit - not easy as I approach 60. It was very worthwhile, and I used my Spanish every day. I was thrilled with how I did in basic conversation. My brother, on the other hand, had far, far less Spanish, but he coped as there is plenty of English around.

I find it difficult to advise you re which camino to choose, but I understand your concerns about full refugios/albergues, and the rush for beds each day. On the rare occasion when the municipal albergues were full we simply went for private accommodation.

I wish you well with your preparation for what I describe as an unforgettable experience.

Noel

[geraldkelly]

Hi Katie

I've walked both in the last couple of years and here's how I see it:

The Camino Frances is special because of all the amazing people you meet on it. It's good for first-timers because there's a great support infrastructure of hostels, shops, cafes etc. and lots of other people to help and advise. If you're interested in culture and history there are loads of things to see.

The Via de la Plata is great if you want solitude. You need basic Spanish because in rural Spain hardly anybody speaks English. There are some difficult stages so you need to be able to walk minimum 30km without difficulty. Much of the landscape is fairly flat, until you get up north where it becomes mountainous.

Ger

[soni]

Hi!! If I have to choose I prefer the Camino Francés, because it´s more popular and there you can find a lot of people and services. Sometimes the hostels are crowded (more in Xacobeo year) but it´s not a problem because always you can find a place to sleep, don´t worry.. the Via de la plata is more solitary and the distances are too long, it´s a very beatiful way too, but if it is your first experience in the Camino I recomend you the Camino Francés.
I hope you understand me, I know my english is not very good, I´m spanish...
bye!!

[robermarbe]

Hi Katie
I am checking almost everyday the spanish forums about the Camino de Santiago. It seems that the Camino Frances is really crowded this year. Getting to the next " Albergue" has become a race. Some people even say that at 12 pm some Albergues are already without place to sleep.
I think that the camino frances is great and it is without any doubt the Camino with a better infraestructure and the most chosen among the piligrims.
I though of doing this Camino but in view of the current situation that might last till end of October I will go for the Camino Primitivo on July.
I cannot tell you anything about the Camino de la Plata, only that some of the areas you will pass through are very beautiful
Good luck

[Oisin]

Hi Katie - I walked the route from Seville last year (at about the same time as you are planning). I would say that it is more of a Spanish adventure than the Frances - which seems too cut and dried to leave much room for adventure. I had no Spanish at all but managed to get along well enough with a phase book - though it does increase the sense of solitude. You will meet people by the way, and enjoy their company all the more for the fact that you may have spent a fair while on you own.