Sabbath Days

[revrenjen]

As I'm thinking about walking El Camino next year, walking from either SJPP or Roncevalles (still trying to decide about the elevation gain out of SJPP) and trying to figure how long it will take me, I'm wondering about taking a regular planned sabbath or rest day. This makes sense to me both physically and spiritually, but I haven't seen much information about scheduling in rest time (I'm anal-retentive enough to want to schedule everything, something that El Camino may knock right out of me!). So I am curious if I should allow for rest days as I plan my trip. I'm a reasonably fit 59 year old woman, but this will far and away the most strenuous thing I have ever done. What has been your experience?

[HuskyNerd]

Hi Rev ~
Are you clergy? Just wondering, since this seems like a question a theologue might ponder . . . .

I did my first Camino from SJPP to Santiago in 2008 and rest days were an important part of the walk. In fact, on this site I think it's pretty standard to recommend at least 2 rest days on the Camino Frances -- one at Burgos and one at Leon -- in order to both rest and to enjoy two great cities. I did that in 2008, plus an extra day in Logrono and Villafranca del Bierzo. That averages out to just about 1 rest day per 7 walked.

The challenge of rest days is that albergue stays are for one overnight, not for two. Unless you have a physical malady of some kind and can convince the hospitaleros that you just can't walk farther, you're obliged at each albergue to move on. The albergues need to clean and prep for the next day's pilgrims, plus have a little time to themselves, so they're not into having people lazing around/observing a sabbath. What this means is that an extra overnight usually requires a hotel stay. If you budget money as well as time, you're set.

In my extra overnights I enjoyed the comfy bed, the hotel's laundry service, a hot bath, the chance to tend to blisters, as well as the opportunity to absorb the street life, history and culture of a beautiful country. I'll be interested to see what others say. Thanks for the great question.

Rev. Sanford "Sandy" Brown (United Methodist)
Seattle WA USA

[Covey]

I always think that rest days in the major cities are an excellent idea and I always take a day off in Burgos, probably a couple of days off in Leon, a couple of days in Santiago and a couple of days in Finesterre.

Burgos, Leon, and Santiago are fascinating places and if you arrive there in the afternoons and leave at dawn the following morning, you have very little time to wander the streets and appreciate what each place has to offer. Also it is good to rest the legs a bit and get some decent food inside you. Also, if you stay in a small hotel, you avoid being locked up at 10pm, which is when the night life of the cities just gets going.

Leon is probably my favourite city, and in the evenings there is a great atmosphere, great places to eat, often a good concert in the cathedral or the parks, and a good place to unwind.

The problem is that having "unwound" you have to wind yourself back up again for El Cebreiro!!

[revrenjen]

Thanks Covey and Sandy, for your help. My husband and a friend bicycled 2500 miles along the route of the Underground Railroad last summer and took every 7th day off. I had sort of been thinking about that model, but your suggestion of resting in cities like Burgos and Leon makes much more sense. And the excuse of staying in a room by myself with my very own shower is extremely enticing! What about Pamplona? I know that is very early in the walk, assuming I start from SJPP.

Thanks again--I cannot tell you how incredibly helpful this forum has been.

Rene'

P.S. Yes, Sandy, I'm a pastor--next year will be my sabbatical, so I am certainly thinking in terms of sabbath time.

[HuskyNerd]

Hi Rev ~
[Very cool. Imagine I'm now giving you the secret clergy handshake.] Yes, Pamplona is ok for an overnight, but you hit it on the head -- it's a little early in the walk. A typical itinerary would be SJPP to Roncesvalles to Zubiri/Larrasoana to Pamplona/Cizur Menor, so Pamplona is only the 3rd night out.

I suspect you'll discover, like most pilgrims, that your itinerary becomes more adjustable as you go along. Your body will help you decide when you want to rest, so you'll be listening to it. And you'll make friends with other pilgrims with their own itineraries and you'll find yourself drawn to stick with them rather than move ahead faster or slow down for extra overnights. Once you arrive at SDC you'll discover people in your group who want to continue to Finisterre and you'll wish you could go with them. Your return flight becomes the time-limiting factor.

So next spring when I'm doing Camino Frances again my plan will be something like this: 33-35 days walking from SJPP to SDC, 4-5 days for extra overnights (I hope to catch Leon on a Fri or Sat night -- Covey's right, it's an extraordinary town), 3 extra days for SDC to Finisterre. This is a cushy itinerary, but having done it before (except Finisterre, which I'll do this year), I want to give it the time it deserves.

Hope this helps in some way. Peace ~
Sandy

[Covey]

HN..... You might need a little longer for the Santiago to Finesterre stage as the weather is fairly unpredictable and you need to see the sunset which on a clear night is spectacular, and for some strange reason seems to bring the Camino to a natural close.

Last year, our little Camino family sat on the headland below the lighthouse in the afternoon having a picnic and going through the ritual of burning our clothes (limited to burning a pair of socks as the rest of our kit is needed for next year!!) but the clouds rapidly covered the sky in early evening, so no sunset! We decided that we would stay another day which we spent meeting other friends we had made along the way, talking of those who had sadly not made it to Finesterre, and having the odd glass of refreshment. That evening we were rewarded with a clear sky, a beautiful sunset watched from the beach, and then the following morning back to Santiago for a farewell lunch and then to the airport to disperse to the four corners of the world.