Camino in February

[LindaaSwift]

My friend & I are travelling from New Zealand to Madrid, and then onto Leon, to walk
the Camino on February 4th. We are giving ourselves 20 days to complete the 15 days suggested in the guide books. Any thoughts or comments regarding walking in the winter? And also what albergues may not be open during that time? Thanks..Linda

[geraldkelly]

Hi Linda

You'll find many albergues closed at that time of year. However, the bigger towns and villages will always have something open. You can download my guide from the link below. I've made an effort to include info about albergues in winter.

You'll need to pack for cold (as in down to freezing) and rain. That part of Spain in winter probably isn't so different from northern New Zealand in winter, no extremes but very changeable weather likely.

20 days from Leon is plenty. Normally it would be about two weeks from there.

Buen Camino!
Ger

[Sonadora]

Hi Linda,
I just the other night from completing a January pilgrimage from Ponferrada to S de C. The weather was actually gorgeous- mornings had a hard frost and some ice, but the coat was off by mid afternoon. Dense, icy fog from O'Cebriero thru Sarria. The Xunta de Galicia alburgues are all open from O'Cebriero to Monte de Gozo except Triacastela. The Mato-Casanova is open though, 6K farther on. I was the only pilgrim some nights. Other pilgrims were mostly Korean and Japanese, and did not speak Spanish or English, or socialize, so it was a very solo sort of trip. For sure, bring fresh clothes for post Camino, spare shoes, etc. and mail them to yourself in Santiago once you arrive in Spain. Tell them you're a pilgrim, and they will do a special peregrino rate. They hold them for you at the post office right near the cathedral. It cost 10 Euro to send an overnight bag full of fresh clothes, and I was so glad to have them!
I would found the following gear helpful:
A tiny camping pan to heat up water for tea or coffee. A collapsible cup. Lots of power bars (not available on the camino very often) Some oatmeal.
A cork screw!
A well-fitted backpack with waist belt.
Really good hiking boots that fit. I added arch supports.
Excellent wool hiking socks in different thicknesses so you can determine what you need once youre really hiking in them.
Wear one shirt and pair of pants and pack another. That's really it. And underwear, of course. There are washers and dryers at many alburgues along the route. 7 euro to wash and dry a load.
Body glide stick to rub on your feet before each day. (I got no blisters--highly recommend this!)
micro fibre long underwear. (I wore cheap UniQlo leggings and turtlenecks. They were great!)
Anything cotton gets sweaty and then you get chilled. Avoid cotton.
A two-layer coat (3-in-one style) that is a heavy fleece with a hooded rainproof outer jacket. You can customize your layers as you pass through various microclimates in the mountains.
lightweight rain pants.
A down sleeping bag (some alburgues had no heat and it's below freezing at night.)
an emergency bivvy bag (if you get lost or injured, you're really alone out there in winter.)
a quick-drying micro fibre camping towel.
Dictionary/ phrase book of Galego and Spanish. No one speaks English in Galicia, though they are very patient with foreign people's attempts to speak Galego or English, and will meet you half way if you make the effort.
Warm gloves, and a balaclava-type hat that covers your face.
flipflops for the shower and alburgue.
Most private alburgues are closed, but I highly recommend Avenue Fenix in Villafranca, which is always open. 12 euro or so includes yummy dinner and breakfast. Jesus at Fenix will truck your pack up to O'Cebriero for you for 4 euro, which is a brutally hard (but gorgeous!) day's climb. I strongly recommend you accept this service if your are not in superb athletic shape. Otherwise, break it into two days. All other days were pleasant, if sometimes strenuous for short periods. Roots and Boots hostel in S de C is nice, with wifi and snack bar. They also have two private rooms with a bathtub if you reserve ahead.
ps When you get to SdeC and have your compostela, head over to the parking garage entrance of the Reis Catolicos before noon, or before 8pm in the evening. Wait there, and the first 10 pilgrims in line get a very fine free meal with the staff of the hotel. We had caviar, wine, and many delicacies. It's a major benefit of being a winter pilgrim!

[janemaryokeefe]

I hiked the camino in July of 2009. It was a hot summer! But........in the mountains it can get very cold!! Even in July the temperatures get quite cool at night and in the early mornings. After you get to Astorga you get to the state of Galicia and it's mountainous with even cold temperatures( especially with the wind) even in July! So I can't imagine what it would be like in February! When I arrived a Cruzo Ferro I had a turtleneck and silk longjohns on, windbreaker, windpants, and a fleece jacket............and this was July! These items are light and pack well. One of my fellow hikers had no protective clothing and she was really uncomfortable. I would think that February would be a lot colder.

[LindaaSwift]

Thanks so much for this information. It's really helpful to know what Albergues are open and will help us plan our days well.
NZ merino wool is my preferred option for clothing...hopefully 3 layers under a gortex jacket and waterproof overtrousers,including merino sock plus hat & gloves will be enough?!? Southern NZ winters give me some tips!

[geraldkelly]

I walked past the Cruz de Ferro once at the end of February in about 10cm of snow and temperatures around freezing. However, I found days of headwinds and rain much tougher psychologically. So good rain gear is essential.

I'm not sure about wool. It tends to be difficult to dry. Artificial fibres will dry much more quickly. You don't want to have to put on something the next morning that's still wet. Mornings are cold enough! I would advise you to "road test" your gear as much as possible, even if that means going for long walks in the worst weather you get there! And then try drying it in a place with no heating (this being a worst case scenario).

Ger

[Sonadora]

Wool is great for socks, but I wore my merino sweater only once on a January camino. It was not as useful as fleece on the camino. It is very foggy and damp, and the sweater retained moisture and was chilly. Just my experience--your sweater may be better than mine. Waterproof gloves were important. It's very lovely and peaceful in winter, but fewer food options as only places frequented by locals are open. John Brierley's guide lists Alburgues and phone numbers, also the Xunta de Galicia ones- which are open in winter.