Churches, Priests, and the Camino Industry

[InOrlando]

All along the Camino Frances there are crumbling churches within small stone villages; these churches often have no services, no function, at all. True, they can offer a "sello," or stamp for the Pilgrim's Passport, but no priest, and no masses. "Not anymore," one old man told me. "No tenemos sacerdotes." We have no priests.


At mass in Hospital de Orbigo, there were 9 women in attendance. The only man was the ancient priest who went about the daily ritual of transubstantiation as if he was struggling to remember where he was. Portomarin's mass was celebrated by three priest-pilgrims who were passing through: a rare treat.



I am saddened by the loss of the Catholic mass and scarcity of priests for small villages. I can see a time in the not-so-distant future when pilgrims will look at these ruined, empty buildings, and ask townspeople what they are. At the same time, I am heartened by the small towns' efforts to keep the buildings in tact—even if only to keep a lighted a candle or stamp a pilgrim's card. I dropped a euro or two whenever there was a "Donativo" box available.


A young woman approached me in the Albergue Avenida Fenix; she was doing a "survey of the Camino" for the government. She asked me about the maintenance of the paths, the availability of albergues, and my overall experiences. I had glowing reports. The government, she said, was interested in pouring new money into the Camino de Santiago as "a tourist attraction." This made me sad.


I say "sad," but it's more complicated than that because I have mixed feelings about the Camino Industry, which uses the path as a type of eco-tourism commercial opportunity. Of course opportunism and commerce have always been part of the Camino experience. And I'm certain that the medieval wealthy often paid someone else to carry their belongings, or for a ride on a passing wagon (the equivalent of today's tour bus) every once in a while, too. All the same, it was somewhat disheartening to see five men bounce out of a car and dash a few blocks to grab the final St. Irene Albergue beds--just as a family of 5, with their dog, was walking painfully up to the door. The family was turned away: "Completo," ("Full") was taped to the doorframe.


For the Camino to continue, there must be a revenue stream from somewhere; I don't mind paying my share. Whatever keeps the path maintained and available gets my vote, but pilgrims who walk this ancient Way reap the heartiest measure of its spirit, grace, and its countless blessings when they understand its historical, spiritual, and religious orientation. The pilgrim doesn't have to be Catholic, or even Christian. But I deeply believe it's important to approach the path with a measure of understanding and respect for these historical institutions, and what they have meant in the experience of the thousands who have come before—and the many who still walk the Way of St. James with a soul devoted to its redemptive effects.

[arturo]

Well... I walked Via Plata s summer, true, not a full lengths of it. Yes, it is a severe shortage of the priests - in Castilla one priest have to serve in 14 (sic!!!) parishes. Definitely, his timetable is more than dense. Other priest had 5 parishes to serve in. In the smaller villages everyday Mass is a luxury to dream about. Sad, but it's true for today's Europe.
From other side, there are real centers of faith and holyness, as Monasterio de Oseira (OCist) or Fuenterroble de Salvatierra (parish house of Don Blas), or Alcuescar (Casa de la Misericordia de Esclavos de Maria y los pobres)... And the spiritual light of theese - an unnamed here other places - is illuminating the way of a pilgrim, all the way. Even after the camino is over.
I am not so pessimistic. Yes, there was some groups with the van support, but they were more than friendly and full of respect to those who walk with full load; always eager to give up they place to free it for the other, more tired, pilgrim. I met a lot of people of good will and strong faith (well, not only Catholic - so what? I learned a lot from them, also about being Christian and about being good person).
Well, I am afraid there is more "Camino Industry" in the Camino Francez, one of reasons why the VdlP was chosen. Now I am sure to undertake one day the French road, too. Sure, when eyes and mind are concentrated on the purpose of the pilgrimage, no "Camino Industry" can spoil it.

[Covey]

The Camino has become an industry in recent times and when you consider the statistics it becomes apparent why.

In 1985 just under 700 pilgrims presented themselves at the Cathedral to collect their Compostella. Last year there were 146,000 of which 113,000 walked the Camino Frances. This year, being a Holy Year, they are expecting 250,000 pilgrims in total.

Spain, and northern Spain in particular, has been having a hard time economically for the past three years and the unemployment rate is officially estimated at 25% in northern Spain. Just count the number of unfinished buildings and cranes that never move.

150,000 pilgrims spending an average of €1000 each on their Camino (minimum) and that works out at €15m as an absolute minimum pumped into the local economy each year, and most of that is spent in the smaller rural towns and villages along the way. That makes it an industry worth protecting and encouraging, however much we might regret the commercialism that rears its ugly head from time to time.