Laredo is the nearest thing you’ll fmd on the coast of Northern Spain to the big beach resorts of the Mediterranean costas; but by costa standards it is quiet and dignified, with very little of the brashness of Benidorm, and its glorious, long sweep of a beach is backed mainly by apartment blocks rather than hotels. It may not be the sort of resort most readers will be travelling in search of — but for a few days on the beach it offers a worthwhile compromise between the smartness of San Sebastian and the simplicity of many other places to the west. Most of the resort stretches along a broad spit of sand which has built up at the mouth of the Rio Ason; across the river mouth, at first glance seeming to be joined to the beach, is the imposing 1000-foot bulk of Monte Ganzo, sheltering the bay and the fishing port of Santora from the full force of the Atlantic waves.
What to see
Old quarter – At the extreme eastern end of Laredo’s magnificent bay is the original town — a jumble of narrow, old, atmospheric streets climbing steeply to the 13th-century church of Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion. There is also a 16th-century Ayuntamiento and other fine houses to be seen.
Nearby
Noja NW, 25km by road – Laredo doesn’t have a local monopoly of fine beaches, and at several points along the indented coastline to the north-west, around the little village of Noja, there are small resorts with hotels, campsites and apartments to rent.
Castro Urdiales E, 25km by road – This small resort and fishing port makes an interesting and pleasant place to pause. It has a splendid setting, with its long beach curling around to culminate in a small and colourful harbour at the foot of a steep headland, whereon sit the 14th-century church of Santa Maria and the ruins of a castle of the Knights Templar. There are neat gardens on the prom, pavement cafés, and a backdrop of rugged hills. The N634 between Laredo and Castro Urdiales is at its most tortuous, and overtaking the heavy lorries you are sure to encounter is both difficult and pointless; fortunately, the scenery along the way is splendid.
Ason valley – The Rio Ason leads off into some splendid mountain scenery south of Laredo, where you could spend days and weeks exploring. Near Ramales de la Victoria are the caves of Covalanas, which have important prehistoric cave paintings.
Where to stay
El Ancla -The Anchor’ is well placed for access to both the huge beach and the old town of Laredo, and is a very pleasant small hotel. It is in a quiet residential street just back from the beach, surrounded by villas and gardens. Its own garden is not huge, but attractively green and shady (there are some rooms directly off this area). For a small place the lobby is quite grand, and there is a comfortably furnished, airy lounge.
Alternatives In the same quiet, leafy street as El Ancla, but with rather less style, is the cheaper El Cortijo. Not far away to the west, on the road backing the beach, is the Cosmopol – a functional but adequate modern block.
